Roses are abloom where I live (northern California). A friend asked me to share beauty recipes using roses - so here goes. But first, a quick introduction. Ever since the world changed with the spread of Covid 19 and we were asked to shelter in place, I started a self study of Ayurveda. I discovered the ancient texts of Charaka and Vagabhatta - the Charaka Samhita and Ashtanga Hridayam. Once I started reading these texts as well as numerous papers published by Indian academic institutions on the science of Ayurveda, I was completely blown away by the simplicity and consistency of this approach. I cannot go back to my old way of doing skin care.
According to Ayurveda, every substance in the universe can be used as medicine provided you know what you're doing and how to use it. Every substance has certain properties which should be understood so that the maximum benefits are derived from it. So before we talk about how to use rose, we need to understand what to use it for.

Rose is Bitter, Astringent, and Sweet in taste.
It has Light and Slimy properties.
It is Cold in potency.
Therefore, in Ayurveda, rose is used to soothe Pitta dosha and any disorders due to this dosha,. Rose is especially good if you have sensitive skin that tends to get inflamed easily. You can use rose externally as well as internally; use it fresh or dried. But first things first:

• Make sure they are not sprayed with any pesticide or other chemicals. Do NOT use store bought roses unless you are 100% sure they are pesticide free.
• Pluck your roses mid-morning. Rinse them gently in cool water and separate the petals. Make sure there are no bugs.
• If you want to dry the petals, spread them on a clean towel and dry them in the shade. Once dry, store them in an air tight non-metallic container in a cupboard so that it is not exposed to sunlight. This way, you can use the petals for up to one year.
• Use the most fragrant rose varieties for maximum benefit.

The best way to use roses for skin care is via face masks.
Use fresh or dried rose petals to make these masks.

• Crush about 10 fresh rose petals using a mortar and pestle. Add a teaspoon of raw honey and mix well. Apply this to your face and let it sit for about 10 minutes before washing off with cool water. This is a good way to cleanse the face all year around.
• If you suffer from acne, the following face pack can be helpful. Take about 7-8 dry rose petals and a teaspoon of masoor (red) lentils. Grind into a fine powder in a coffee grinder. Make a paste of this with enough milk (whole milk is best). Apply this to your face.
• if you have a lots of roses, consider making an everyday facial cleanser. Roses can be combined with appropriate lentils for your skin type (dosha). To find out more about crafting a personalized cleanser, contact Saroya.

Note: face masking, or mukhalepa in Ayurveda, needs to be done in a specific way.

• Thoroughly cleanse the face with a gentle cleanser and pat dry.
• Face packs need to be applied thick - precisely as thick as a quarter of the width of a finger. Use a clean cosmetic brush to apply the mask thick and evenly.
• The mask should be removed when it begins to dry. Never let the mask dry completely on your face.
• Wash off the mask with cool water and apply a drop or two of a facial oil suitable for your dosha or the current season.

Roses can also be used internally. Consider making rose Gulkand, a sweet dish. You can find many recipes online.

Or drink a rose tea.
To make rose tea, pour just boiling water on 3-4 dried rose petals. Let it steep for 2-3 minutes and drink the tea. Rose is good for the heart and balances Sadhaka Pitta - a sub-dosha of Pitta that influences emotions. . You can consider making a nervine tea by making a tea of rose, chamomile, and lemon balm. This combination is calming to the mind and helps the nervous system. Drink a cup before going to bed to set a calming ritual.

I hope you find these recipes useful. Comment down if you plan to try any and how they worked out for you!

​Every so often, I get questions from clients on skincare. Here's an interesting one from my sister: “Should I be using a toner?” Read on to find out.
There are multiple categories of skin care products: cleanser, toner, essence, serum, moisturizer, mask … what else am I missing? The function of cleansers and moisturizers are the easiest to understand. Cleansers remove dirt and oil from your skin. Moisturizers add hydration (or moisture) to your skin. Toners fall into a grey zone in terms of functionality. Some define the function as cleansing of your skin pores. Some define the function as adding more hydration or other additives. Hyaluronic acid and vegetable glycerin are examples of humectants that help with extra hydration while vitamins are other beneficial additives that can be added.
A toner, essence, water, or serum can all provide similar functionality. They are typically used after cleansing and before applying moisturizer and are watery in consistency. Some toners have alcohol in them. These are sometimes labeled as astringent toners. They are marketed as products that "tighten pores". Technically, pores do not open, close, or tighten. What happens is that the skin around the pores tightens because of dryness (alcohol is very drying) giving you the impression that your pores are tighter. 

Coming back to the question “Should I use a toner?” - below are three reasons to use one

• You use an alkaline cleanser such as real soap.           

Real, cold process soap has received a bad rap because it is alkaline. Our skin has an acid mantle with a pH ranging from 4-6.5. This acid mantle is necessary for good skin health. Disrupting the pH can cause various problems including dermatitis, irritation, acne etc. This is why many commercial cleansers and synthetic detergent (syndet) soaps are formulated to be slightly acidic or neutral. But if you do happen to use real soap, then you should use a toner immediately after to restore the pH back to the range of your skin. However, keep in mind though that not all toners are acidic. So if you use a non-acidic toner like "Rosewater" for example, it is not going to help.

I personally use real soap to cleanse my body and sometimes my face. The reason is because I made a choice to eliminate plastic from my skin care regimen as much as possible. (Saroya offers a solid shampoo bar that is neutral in pH that can double as body soap, but I prefer real soap because it can be made from scratch from plant oils.) The pH of the soap I make is around 8 so I use an acidic toner immediately after to neutralize the alkalinity.

• Age

    The pH of skin increases with age. So it might be a good idea to add an acidic toner to your routine if you are middle aged or older.

• You want to add certain actives to your skin

Do you want to add some exfoliation to your routine? There are toners with glycolic acid for example. Glycolic acid is a chemical exfoliant. Tarte has a toner with a bunch of alpha and beta hydroxy acids (chemical exfoliants).

This toner from Keihl’s has calendula and burdock botanical extracts meant to soothe sensitive skin.

This toner from Neutrogena is just water and butylene glycol and not terribly useful in my opinion. Other than a humectant and panthenol, it has no other nourishing ingredients. 

Some toners contain witch hazel, a bark with astringent properties, that constricts skin and gives the feeling of tightening pores. It is debatable if astringents do any good. However, witch hazel extract contains other beneficial skin nutrients such as polyphenols which are antioxidants. But beware of commercial products containing witch hazel as they can contain significant amounts of alcohol which is extra drying. 

In conclusion, consider a toner if you would like to get some new functionality that you aren’t getting from your regular routine. Do not simply pick a product based on the cover - read the ingredients and understand what they can do for you!

 I have never been into makeup. I know it's quite exciting for a lot of women, but for me it's just a bother. Why?

• It takes time and skill - I prefer to spend the time on something else (like doing yoga for example)
• It's high maintenance
• It's expensive. You need to have the products and the tools. I recently read Bobbi Brown's book Living Beauty - while the results of her artistry are quite remarkable, they come at a pretty significant cost.

I can go on, but those are the basics. Although I don't care for makeup, I do care deeply about beauty. Everyone has an opinion about beauty - to me beauty is an attitude and a state of mind. As cliched as that might sound, I believe it's true. For my beauty to shine through my persona, I need to feel gorgeous. And makeup does not do it for me. 
To illustrate what makes me feel gorgeous, I need to make an analogy to Ramit Sethi's pyramid for productivity (with due apologies to Ramit). When you think about it, there are a few key fundamentals which when taken care of pay huge dividends when it comes to the quality of your life. Beauty is an aspect of quality of life - it adds to self confidence. So, here are the fundamentals Ramit talks about that are the basics of leading a productive life. Interestingly, the same is true for looking gorgeous as well. (Below is my summary and not exactly Ramit's words).

• Sleep well - nothing like a good night's sleep to make you feel amazing. Also it helps with dark circles and generally looking like you're about to drop. Concealers work but are a lot more work, time and money. Nothing pays richer dividends than making it a priority to get a good night's sleep.
• Eat well - Ramit talks about meal plans so that the probability of unhealthy eating is low. But the fundamental is to eat nutritious food. For beauty, there are multiple benefits to eating healthy, nutritious food. Many people mistakenly think that beauty is about what they slather on their skin - it is actually a fundamental side effect of a healthy life style.
• Cultivate systems and habits that help you achieve your goal. For beauty, there are a few personal hygiene habits that have to be cultivated and practiced consistently. Like brushing and flossing your teeth. Below are some of the most effective habits that have worked for me (besides the two above).
  • Cleanse your face in the morning and at night no.matter.what. A lot of people go to bed without cleansing their face - just like brushing your teeth gets rid of the food remnants stuck in your teeth, cleansing your face at night removes the grime that collects on your face from your activities throughout the day.  This one habit will elevate your skin to a new level. 
  • Give your skin real nutrients. Makeup is not nutritious. Real nutrients are rich plan oils like olive, coconut, grapeseed etc. My personal regimen is to use facial oils as moisturizers morning and night. A lot of people are appalled at the thought of using oils for their face. I used to be one of them. But I am now convinced that oils are the best way to restoring your skin to the right oil balance. Use natural soaps made from real oils. Want less breakouts? Use facial oils.
  • Exfoliate - use simple physical exfoliants. You don't need 20% glycolic acid peels. Physical exfoliants take time but are way less risky and more pleasant to use. Exfoliate your body as well about once a week by dry brushing or using a scrub.
• Exercise. It's funny how we try to recreate the natural with makeup. It's not a bad thing but for me it's misplaced time and energy. When you exercise, your cheeks flush. You improve your blood circulation in your body that creates vitality. The best manifestation of beauty is vitality. So do exercise that you enjoy. For me it's brisk walking and yoga. Make it a priority. And drink a lot of water and eat food with fiber so the unhealthy build up in your body is flushed away in your pee and poo. 

So that's it. If the above habits are cultivated and practiced consistently, you will glow without the need for makeup. How do I know? I have experimented on myself. I read a lot and found the above to be common in most credible works. Try it - you have nothing to lose.