Sankhya is a philosophy that uses causality to rigorously explain how humans can break the cycle of suffering that accompanies existence, once and for all. The answer is through knowledge of the SELF, a concept that can only be experienced, but not explained. The concept of the SELF is core to all Vedic philosophical systems - it is also known as Purusha in Sankhya, Brahman and Atman in Vedanta philosophy. 

The following are foundational concepts of the Sankhya principles of creation that are useful to understand Ayurveda: 

1. Atomism: All that is perceived by humans, including the body, is made up of a finite number of elements, five to be precise. These are called Space, Air, Fire, Water, and Earth. The five elements are not to be thought of literally. They are to be understood as representing qualities or properties  of matter rather than the composition of matter. 
2. Our sense organs are instruments of knowledge: we interact with the world via sensual perception that is processed by our mind. 
3. Input to the senses from the external world impacts the output of the mind which drives our actions such as movement, eating, communication etc. 
4. Thus our wellbeing is determined by the state of our body and our mind; the two cannot be separated. 
5. If the input to the senses is unsuitable, the mind will make us act in ways that will be detrimental to our wellbeing. 

Though commentaries, interpretations, and research have evolved from the Vedic period to the present time, Ayurveda as we know it today, derives from three treatises: the Charaka Samhita compiled by the sage Charaka, Sushruta Samhita by sage Sushruta, and Ashtanga Hridayam by sage Vagabhata. All three works span eight specific topics. Ayurveda is defined in the first chapter, entitled Longevity, of the first section on Fundamental Principles as follows: Ayurveda is about life; what is a good life, a bad life, a happy or sorrowful life, a healthy or unhealthy life. But what is life? Ayurveda has a precise answer to this complex question: Life is the coexistence of the physical body, the senses, the mind, and SELF that is characterized by vitality. The goal of Ayurveda is to provide knowledge on the cause, symptoms, and treatment of disease. 
Although Ayurveda is focused on health, it is very important to study it from a perspective of its place in the ultimate purpose of life. The purpose of life, as defined in Ayurvedic texts, is rooted in Vedic philosophy and is essentially to fulfill four goals:

1. Enjoy one’s life and worldly experiences while
2. Contributing meaningfully to the good of one’s family, community, and society through work and
3. Ensuring that one’s actions, words, or behavior doesn’t do any harm to others, while always learning how to
4. Train one's mind to recognize one’s true identity (SELF)

In Vedic philosophy, our true identity has nothing to do with our body or mind. In fact all suffering is due to confusing one’s identity with one’s thoughts and body. Thus, Ayurveda should be practiced without obsessing over the state of one's health and body. 
​
If this is interesting and you'd like to know more about Vedic philosophy, I highly recommend a series of lectures on Vedanta by Swami Sarvapriyananda that you can watch here. Even just the first lecture is highly illuminating. 

In my quest for authentic Ayurvedic skincare formulations, I spent the past few days poring over multiple volumes of  Ayurvedic materia medica and formulation books. The work was tedious as it involved cross referencing several Sanskrit words for the ingredients in the formulas to the correct volume of the materia medica book to determine the botanical identity. I learned a few very interesting things in this process, one of which is the use of lotus and water lilies in skincare formulation, and the fact that they are two distinct botanical species. One way to distinguish the two is the central part of the flowers, which becomes the seed pod in the lotus, but is absent in the water lily.  

The lotus is the national flower of India and is considered one of the most sacred of flowers. The goddess Lakshmi is depicted sitting on a pink lotus, and the flower is a symbol of beauty, purity, and prosperity. Below is an example of goddess Lakshmi from my alter. 

Lotus and water lily in Ayurveda
Called Kamala or Padma in Sanskrit, lotus belongs to the botanical species called Nelumbo Nucifera in the Nelumbonacae family. It is ironic that from an ecological perspective, the lotus plant may be considered an invasive species. Every part of the plant was used in Ayurveda, from the slush in which the plant grows, to its seeds. Nilikadya Tailam, a hair oil formulation, uses lotus rhizomes, while Triphaladi Tailam, also a formulation for hair disorders, calls for white and pink flowers (Sveta and Rakta Kamala).  
Triphaladi Tailam references an ingredient called Kumuda flower. Kumuda is water lily, botanically known as Nymphaea Nouchali. Another formulation called Kanaka Tailam, indicated for skin issues, calls for Utpala flower. Utpala, also called Nilotpala, is the blue water lily,  Nymphaea Nouchali variety Caerulea. The blue water lily is very often called blue lotus, and is the national flower of the country Sri Lanka. 

It appears that both Nelumbo Nucifera and Nymphaea Nouchali have similar properties. They have sweet, astringent, and bitter pharmacology and cold energetics, and thus highly valued for Pitta disorders, and also Kapha. Lotus is regarded as a Varnya, or complexion enhancing herb, while the blue water lily is referenced as having beneficial action on hair (Keshya), cognition (Medhya), and vitality (Rasayana). 

Lotus (Kamala) and Blue Water Lily (Nilotpala) in Indian Culture
Carnatic music is one of the two ancient forms of classical Indian music that is associated with southern India. One of the renowned composers of Carnatic compositions is Muthuswami Dikshithar, who lived in the late 18th - early 19th century CE. Dikshithar was born in Thiruvarur, which is part of the current Indian state of Tamil Nadu. Of his nearly 500 compositions (or Krithis), there are two sets of compositions, comprising 11 and 9 krithis respectively, dedicated to Kamalamba and Nilotpalamba, both incarnations of goddess Parvati, wife of the god Shiva. There is an ancient temple in Thiruvarur dedicated to lord Shiva (called Thyagaraja) and his consorts, Kamalamba and Nilotpalamba. There is a theory that Kamalamba is associated with the "Yoga" or spiritual aspect of Shiva, while Nilotpalamba is associated with the "Bhoga" or sensual aspect of Shiva. 

I have photographed the blue water lily in various places and had no idea of its history or use in Ayurveda until recently! Nor did I connect the symbolism of these gorgeous flowers to Indian culture and mythology. Hope you enjoyed this read. 

The Most Gentle Exfoliants
When starting with chemical exfoliation, it's important to choose gentle options to minimize irritation and sun damage. Some of the most gentle exfoliants include:

• Lactic Acid: Derived from milk, it's a mild AHA (alpha hydroxy acid) suitable for sensitive skin.
• Mandelic Acid: An AHA derived from almonds, it's gentle and ideal for beginners.
• PHA (Polyhydroxy Acids): Even gentler than AHAs, PHAs provide exfoliation with minimal irritation, perfect for sensitive skin.
• Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs) are oil-soluble acids that penetrate deeper into the pores, making them excellent for exfoliating oily and acne-prone skin. The most common BHA used in skincare is salicylic acid. Examples of BHAs are salicylic acid and Betaine salicylate. 

Saroya Natural's Blemish Control Botanical Serum is a fantastic option for those looking to incorporate chemical exfoliation into their routine. This serum combines natural botanical extracts with gentle exfoliants like lactic, ellagic, and salicylic acids to exfoliate, unclog pores, and reduce blemishes without causing irritation. Moreover, botanical extracts of pomegranate, willow bark, and bakuchi seed, an Ayurvedic herb renowned for its skin healing properties, deliver much needed antioxidants to protect skin from photo damage. This serum is gentle enough to be used daily at night. 

What to Expect When You First Start Exfoliating
When you first start using a chemical exfoliant, you might experience:

• Mild Tingling or Redness: This is your skin reacting to the new product and may or may not happen. If it does occur, it should not last for more than a week or so. Any reaction that persists for over two weeks indicates that your skin is sensitive to the product and its use must be stopped. 
• Smoother Texture: After a few uses, you’ll notice your skin feeling softer and more refined.
• Brighter Complexion: Over time, your skin will look more radiant and even-toned.

Skin Purging: A Potential Side EffectOne potential side effect of chemical exfoliation is skin purging. This occurs when the increased cell turnover brings underlying congestion to the surface, leading to temporary breakouts. Purging typically lasts for a few weeks. If breakouts persist beyond six weeks, it may be a sign of irritation rather than purging, and you should stop the product and consult a dermatologist.

Scientific perspective on eczema
An understanding of the pathology of eczema is far from complete. The cause of eczema is attributed to a combination of factors such as epidermal barrier dysfunction, and immune dysregulation. The following factors can increase an individual's risk for atopic dermatitis, a class of skin diseases of which eczema is an example:

• genetic factors
• family history which can dramatically increase the risk of a child developing eczema
• environmental factors such as pollution, climate, and season
• cosmetics and personal care products containing harsh ingredients such as strong surfactants, preservatives, and fragrances
• diet triggers 
• immune triggers (example certain toxins)
• stress

The diagnosis for eczema is primarily based on clinical observation by a dermatologist. Symptoms must include the following to be diagnosed as eczema:

• Major criteria: itchy skin
• Three of the following minor criteria: skin lesions (damage), history of dry skin, asthma, skin rashes that tingle, burn, or ooze liquid

Atopic dermatitis can be classified based on the age of onset into "very early onset", occurring in babies (less than two years), "early onset", occurring in children between ages 2 to 6, "childhood onset", occurring in children between 6 to 14, "adolescent onset", occurring between 14 and 18 years of age, and "adult onset", in adults between 20 and 60. Very early onset eczema typically resolves after the age of two and is not the topic of the discussion here. 

The link between impaired epidermal barrier function and the immune system
Skin protects our body from external pathogens, pollutants, and toxic chemicals. The outermost layer, the epidermis, also serves the function of limiting water loss from the body. There is growing evidence that points to impaired skin barrier function being a symptom of an abnormal immune system. Several factors impact the immune system:

• Genetic factors
• Certain medical conditions
• Poor diet - micro and macronutrient imbalance
• Sedentary lifestyle
• Obesity
• Chronic stress
• Poor sleep
• Alcohol and tobacco consumption

With the exception of genetic factors, we have the power to control the other factors using lifestyle and diet. 

Treatment of eczema
Eczema is typically treated using topical and oral steroids to manage symptoms. Topical corticosteroids are prescribed to manage itching. Oral steroids are added to the treatment regimen in severe cases. Oral steroids work by suppressing the immune system. Steroids are intended for short term use as prolonged use can lead to several side effects. Oral steroids are especially risky as they can lead to kidney and liver dysfunction if used long term. ​

Science on milk
Multiple reviews have examined clinical trial data concerning the impact of milk on cardiovascular health, with a focus on saturated fats and their relation to cholesterol levels, particularly LDL-cholesterol. A summary of three papers (reference 1, reference 2, and reference 3) is presented below. 
Diet-Heart Hypothesis Revisited: 

• ​The diet-heart hypothesis centered on the impact of saturated fats on cholesterol levels, especially LDL-cholesterol, as a precursor to cardiovascular disease (CVD).

Clinical Trial Data (1960s-1970s): 

• Rigorous, large-scale clinical trials involving about 67,000 participants challenged the hypothesis. Trials, lasting 1-7 years, did not conclusively support the idea that reducing saturated fat intake reduces CVD risk.

Cochrane Review 2020: 

• Recent Cochrane reviews question the efficacy of reducing saturated fats in improving cardiovascular outcomes.
• Emphasizes the limitations of focusing solely on LDL-cholesterol and the oversight of critical clinical trial data.

On the other hand, several benefits of cow's milk were reported from the clinical trials. 
Benefits of cow milk
Milk and Blood Pressure: 

• Clinical trials indicate that milk fat consumption is not associated with increased blood pressure, and some studies even show a reduction.

Cardiovascular Disease (CVD) Risk:

• Large, randomized, controlled trials from the 1960s and 1970s did not conclusively support the diet-heart hypothesis.
• Dairy product intake in adults was associated with improved body composition, weight loss, and reduced risks of type 2 diabetes and cardiovascular disease, particularly stroke.
• Reductions in saturated fat intake, even with consistent reductions in total cholesterol, did not reliably reduce long-term clinical cardiovascular outcomes, such as heart attacks and deaths.

Impact on LDL-Cholesterol:

• Saturated fats, including those found in milk, do raise LDL-cholesterol concentration.
• However, reducing saturated fat intake and lowering LDL-cholesterol did not consistently lead to reduced cardiovascular risk in the long term.
• The decrease in LDL-cholesterol primarily reflected reduced levels of large LDL particles, which have a weaker association with heart disease risk.

Milk and Neurological Diseases:

• Milk consumption inversely associated with the risk of cognitive disorders, including Alzheimer’s disease.
• Increased risk of Parkinson’s disease with dairy product intake; the mechanism is unclear.

A1 β-Casein, A2 β-Casein, and Chronic Diseases:

• Caseins constitute a significant portion of milk proteins, with A1 and A2 β-casein variants. The A1 variant has been associated with gastrointestinal symptoms akin to lactose intolerance.
• The role of milk and dairy in chronic diseases is complex. While some studies suggest a protective role against obesity and Type 2 Diabetes (T2D), associations with cardiovascular diseases, cancer, and neurological diseases exhibit variability.

​Role of Diet Matrix:

• Saturated fats, when part of the food matrix in products like cheese and yogurt, are associated with essential nutrients like calcium, vitamins A, D, and B12, and proteins.
• The overall dietary pattern, particularly carbohydrate intake, plays a crucial role in the metabolism of saturated fat.​

​Salt taste in Ayurveda
One of the fundamental properties of substances as described in Ayurveda is Rasa, translated as "taste" in English. There are six tastes: sweet, sour, salt, pungent, bitter, and astringent. Since everything that was known to humans was perceived through the senses, Ayurveda describes the properties of substances in terms of five perceivable elements called Panchamahabhoota viz. space, wind, fire, water, and earth. The salt taste has the properties of Fire and Water elements and has the following effect on the body:

• Fire and Water being opposites, salt is neither too heavy nor too light
• Can be heating depending on the type of salt
• Stimulates digestion
• Has lubricant action
• Eases gas
• Causes heart disease in excess

​Types of salt referenced in Ayurveda 
There are over ten types of salt that are referenced in the Brihat Trayi, the three authoritative works on Ayurveda. Of these, five types are referenced in all three which indicates they were probably more commonly used. These are Saindhava, Samudra, Sauvarchala, Vida, and Aubhida. 

1. Saindhava salt is referenced in all three texts as being the best type of salt. This is currently understood to be rock salt. Contrary to other types of salts, this salt is cooling and beneficial for the eyes. The excellent review on salts in Ayurveda by N. S. Mooss explains the possible origins and composition of this salt: 

• Can be white or red in color
• Likely from the Sindh area in current Pakistan which is the probable root of the name Saindhava
• There are two hypotheses for what was the source of this salt: from salt mines and/or from hot springs
• Current commercial varieties of rock salt come from the Kohl and Kalabag areas of Pakistan and from Mandi, Himachal Pradesh in India. The former is considerably more pure than the latter (99% NaCl vs 70-80% NaCl).
• Modern commercial rock salt contains salts of potassium, magnesium, and calcium, all at less than 1%. This is also consistent with the chemical composition of several commercial varieties of Himalayan pink salt as determined by mass spectrometry in a paper by Fayet-Moore et al. Note that trace amounts of salts of several elements (including essential, non-essential, and harmful, viz heavy metals) are also present in any salt. But the most abundant metals, other than sodium, are Ca, K, and Mg. 
• Himalayan pink salt is often referred to as rock salt; from a chemistry standpoint, this seems to be reasonable. 

2. Samudra salt is clearly sea salt from the translation of Samudra which means sea in Sanskrit. Sea salt is described as being "not too hot" and heavy. 

• Sea salt, like Himalayan salt, also contains salts of calcium, potassium, and magnesium. 
• A growing concern with sea salt consumption is the presence of micro plastic contamination in several commercial samples, particularly in salts originating in Asian countries. 

3. Sauvarchala salt is a salt that is described as being "sweet smelling, light, and hot". There is significant confusion regarding the chemical composition of this salt. Based on the properties described, Mooss concludes that it may be comprised of NaCl, with some KCl, and sulfates of Na and K. This salt is likely a close relative of what we know today as Kala namak, or black salt. 
4. Vida salt is described as being "sharp, and alkaline, and dark red in color". This variety of salt is also currently shrouded in confusion as to the chemical composition. It is a salt that seems to be synthesized using organic material, probably alma. It is unlikely that there are authentic commercial forms of this salt available today. 
5. Aubhida salt is described as "sharp, hot, bitter, pungent, and alkaline". The origin of this salt seems to be in current Punjab. Mooss postulates that the composition of this salt is similar to Souvarchala salt based on the similarity in properties described. 
​Iodine in salt
​Iodine was introduced in salt in the US in the 1920s when goiter, a disease that causes enlargement of the thyroid gland due to iodine deficiency, plagued a significant percentage of the US population. Natural food sources of iodine are plants that absorb the nutrient from the soil, seaweed, fish, and dairy. However, there are some areas where the soil is depleted of iodine, such as the Great Lakes region in the US. This area was part of the "goiter belt" that catalyzed the introduction of iodized salt.
Iodine is not found naturally in cow's milk, but industrialization of the dairy industry, particularly, using iodine for sanitation and in feed, have resulted in dairy products becoming a significant, albeit highly variable, source of iodine.
So this begs the question: do we need iodized salt? 

• The population that is most at risk for iodine deficiency are pregnant women and vegans who do not get iodine from any of the animal sources mentioned above. 
• The daily recommended dose of iodine is 300mcg/day for pregnant women and about 150mcg/day for others. Iodized salt delivers over 50% of the daily recommended dose of iodine assuming 3-5g of salt intake per day. 
• Therefore, iodized salt may be a good addition if you are at risk for iodine deficiency. 

Conclusion

• Ayurveda considers Saindhava salt to be the best kind. Modern commercial types of salt that seem to be close to this salt from a chemical composition perspective are Himalayan salt. You may also try procuring the more authentic Saindhava salt from Pakistan or Himachal Pradesh. 
• Be aware of micro plastic contamination in modern sea salt. 
• You might want to mix in iodized salt (you can buy iodized Himalayan and sea salt) if you are at risk for iodine deficiency. 
• The key difference between table salt and the Himalayan and sea salts (besides iodine in the former) are the presence of other essential metals such as calcium, magnesium, and potassium in the latter. Although Himalayan salt is touted for the presence of an oddly specific number of minerals (84?), take this with a grain of salt (pun intended). Most of these minerals are present in very low concentrations to make any impact to our daily needs. 

I recently dropped a kid off at college and found myself stressing over how she’d take to adulting. Eighteen years of stability, comfort and organic food given up for a tiny box of a room, unhealthy food, and the freedom to binge on alcohol and god knows what else teenagers binge on. I suddenly seemed to be afflicted with amnesia, unable to recall any risky behavior I might have indulged in when I left home for college. My mom asked me if I’d taught her to cook. I rolled my eyes and said, “There are thousands of YouTube videos that she can watch to cook anything she wants. The correct question is, “Does she want to cook?””. What about managing money? We live in a world of digital currency. No more worrying about cash when there’s Venmo. The question is, what will she spend money on? As this conversation went on, I realized, somewhat triggered by Yuval Noah Harari’s works that I’d been reading, that two important questions to answer on our journey to adulting is “What do I really want?" and “Why do I want it?” As Google becomes our most trusted friend and guide, TikTok and Instagram tell us what we should like, and Amazon tells us what we should buy, do we have free choice anymore? “Know thyself” is age old wisdom but is probably more relevant and important today than it has ever been. 
The oldest seeds of human self awareness can be traced through the hazy maze of history to almost ten thousand years ago. The roadmap for human life lies like a diamond in the rough within the cryptic, archaic Sanskrit literature called the Vedas. Aptly called Purushartha (literally translated to “self meaning”), the Vedas alluded to four objectives of human life: earn one’s living, experience life to fulfill one’s desires, live a life of balance to understand and abide by what’s right, and finally, learn to let go, be “free” of desire. Detailed works expounding upon each of these four objectives were subsequently recorded by various scholars. We can distill some core principles from this ancient wisdom and use them as a compass to help us live with awareness. 

Artha, pursuit of material objectives: The Purusharthas advocate for the pursuit of wealth and material comforts. However, this needs to be done within the boundaries of Dharma. Dharma is a word that is impossible to translate into English. In this context, it implies that the pursuit of wealth must be done without harming others and in an honest manner. The guidance is to work with utmost focus without being attached to the work, or the fruits of the work. Through our work, we contribute our bit to the betterment of humankind. How do we interpret this in modern society? Some thoughts: 

• Understand the meaning of positive contribution; if what you do hurts other beings and disturbs the natural order of things, you will not be fulfilled even if you make a lot of money. 
• Work with utmost sincerity, for its own sake, without expecting to be rewarded for it.
• YOU are not what you do for a living. 
• Do not objectify yourself by valuing yourself based on how much money you make.

Kama, pursuit of human desire: What’s the purpose of pursuing wealth? For one, it is to enjoy the comforts and pleasures of human existence. Another is to give to others, spread our wealth to uplift others in need. Just as there are boundaries around how we earn our living, there are boundaries around how we pursue our desires, again within the dictates of Dharma. Here Dharma implies balance. Excessive pursuit of pleasure leads us astray from the path of fulfillment. Pursuit of our desires is generally accomplished with money. The key is to understand what we will spend it on, and how much we will spend. 

• Understand what you value. What brings you joy? Earn and allocate money to make your real desires come true. 
• Have a system to determine the monetary value of things. Such as a price comparison chart, reviews of the product, evaluation of the alternatives to understand the gap between having vs. not having the thing you desire. Having a system will help clarify your needs vs. wants.  
• Indulge in your passions, desires, and work without harming others, including yourself.
• Once you have taken care of yourself, give what you’re comfortable with to uplift others.

Dharma, upholding the balance in our life: Dharma implies many things; duty, code of conduct, balance, and purpose. We uphold the laws of the society we live in so that we may live freely. Breaking the law comes with the consequence of punishment. This is an obvious example of living according to Dharma. There are also moral responsibilities and our values which dictate our behavior and actions. 

• It’s highly worthwhile to identify your core values. This will help you understand your actions and help align the choices and decisions you make with who you are. (There are quite a few exercises to help you do this). 
• Pay attention to your feelings; some things and people energize us, others drain our energy. Choose wisely!
• Being authentic to yourself is the greatest act of self compassion and courage, and is good for your health. Never hesitate to acknowledge how you feel; with this awareness, comes clarity to take action. Bottling up our feelings comes from fear, destroys balance, and leads to self destructive behavior. Expressing our feelings thoughtfully leads to growth. 
• There are ten qualities that help us align with Dharma: resilience, forgiveness, self control, integrity, purity and hygiene of body and mind, reason, knowledge, truth, and control over anger. Strive to live by these. 

Moksha, freedom from human suffering: Moksha is the most elusive, least understood of the Purusharthas. It is freedom from fear, desire, and suffering to finally know who we really are. There is a concept of a true self; moksha is finding this self, finally knowing the “Truth”. A path to Moksha is through leading a life of Dharma. One can also attain moksha through study or spirituality. Attaining Moksha is considered to be the ultimate purpose of life.

• We cannot attain Moksha without fulfilling the other three Purusharthas. 
• Answering the question “Who am I?” is not defined by our current role in society or the work we do. What we do should be the result of self awareness. 
• Practice checking in with your feelings to identify what gives you true joy. 
• When things look bleak, take a moment to remember that there is a journey worth exploring, that into your own mind, to know who you are. 

I'd love to hear your thoughts!

How to manage dry and dehydrated skin
Dry skin needs oil, dehydrated skin needs moisture. 
Dry skin and dehydrated skin may have similar symptoms. So it's best to ensure that your skin has both enough oil and moisture.  
​There are three classes of ingredients that can help relieve the feeling of dryness: 

• Humectants: Humectants attract moisture to the skin. Examples are aloe vera, glycerin, stearic acid, ceramides, and hyaluronic acid to name a few. Humectants are great for dehydrated skin. 
• Occlusives: These are substances that form a protective barrier on the skin and prevent loss of moisture by evaporation. Examples include petroleum jelly (Vaseline), waxes like beeswax, emulsifying wax etc. which are found in commercial creams and lotions. Occlusives are also great for dehydrated skin. 
• Emollients: These are generally small molecular weight oils that penetrate the epidermal cells and fill in the spaces between them. There are a great variety of oils that have a wide range of skin benefits. But the oils that specifically benefit dry skin are those with a specific lipid profile. In general, oils with high linoleic acid content, a type of fatty acid, are the best for dry skin, specifically to help repair the skin barrier function. Sesame seed oil is a good generic oil with moderate linoleic acid content. However, it works best in synergy with botanicals because of its ability to carry these compounds deep into skin tissue. A great easily available oil that is abundant in linoleic acid is sunflower seed oil and is fantastic for skin. Typically, just a cream or lotion is not enough to manage dry skin. An oil needs to be part of your daily routine. 

​For harsh winter months, a multi-pronged strategy is recommended to protect your skin. 

• Take short showers. As tempting as it is to have long, really hot showers in the winter months, resist! Heat strips skin of its natural oils and can worsen the symptoms of dry skin. 
• Use gentle soaps, if possible only in areas that it is really needed. All soaps are going to strip some oil from your skin so my recommendation is to use as little of it as possible. Another option is to use a choornam, an age old Ayurvedic powder cleanser predominantly composed of lentil flour, like this one. 
• After a shower, apply a good body oil, like Saroya Natural's Vata Body Oil, when the skin is still slightly damp. It is important that skin is slightly damp when you apply the oil.
• For severe cases, finish off with a rich, thick cream that has waxes to seal the moisture.

What are your hair woes? Mine is a smelly scalp. I tend to sweat a bit on my head when I go for walks or exercise. So my personal nightmare is repulsing someone with scalp odor. Of course I could wash my hair several times a week to avoid this. But when you shampoo too often, you're cleaning the dirt at the expense of stripping your scalp of sebum, the natural oils that protect it from overly drying and keeps hair healthy. Read this article for a description of how shampoo works. 
My hair care routine is as follows:

• Oil scalp and hair every single time I wash my hair
• Apply a pH balancing hair mask. This is essential for scalp odor. 
• Shampoo hair - no conditioner
• Apply a light hair serum if necessary when hair is slightly damp

Oiling the scalp increases blood circulation to it and is important for healthy hair. A good hair mask must provide nourishing ingredients without stripping the scalp of the oils. You can customize hair masks for different purposes example, dandruff, hair fall etc. Some stellar ingredients suggested by Ayurveda are aloe vera gel (fresh from the plant), brahmi and bhringraj for hair fall, neem for dandruff, hibiscus for conditioning etc. Shikakai and aritha powders gently cleanse and restore pH balance to the scalp. 

A note on conditioning: modern day conditioners are made of oils, waxes and silicones. While they can make your hair shine and are great for detangling, the waxes just draw more dirt and if you put the product on your scalp, can block the pores and interfere with sebum production. Unfortunately, most commercial shampoos are so harsh that shampooing without conditioning is almost impossible. This is why it is important to pick a gentle, naturally conditioning shampoo. Saroya's Coconut Eucalyptus powder shampoo has conditioning coconut milk and is gentle enough that you don't need conditioner. 

For modern day bathing in showers, shampoos work best to remove the oil. 
This is what I advise my clients to do to achieve healthy hair that doesn't smell bad if you go a few days without washing. 

1. On hair washing day, oil scalp thoroughly. Suggestion: try Saroya's Hibiscus Hair oil. The proper way to oil hair is to pay particular attention to the scalp. The scalp needs to be massaged thoroughly to encourage blood circulation to the head. Then work your way down the hair length. 
2. After oiling, take one heaping tablespoon of your hair mask of choice  in a bowl and make a paste with the consistency of baby food with either coconut milk, aloe vera juice, or water. Suggestion: try Saroya's FenuGreek Goddess hair mask available for dandruff and hair fall. 
3. Let the oil  sit for at least two hours before washing. 
4. 30 minutes before wash time, get into the shower and apply the hair mask all over the scalp. It is more important to cover the scalp than the hair. 
5. Leave on for 30 mins. You can cover the head with a shower cap but it's not necessary. 
6. Wash off the mask thoroughly. Then apply a shampoo to wash off the oil. If using a conditioner, make sure that the conditioner is ONLY applied to the hair and not the scalp. 
7. Frequency of hair washing: With use of the hair mask, once every 5-7 days is good without your scalp getting too oily and stinky. 
8. If you suffer from dry and frizzy hair, apply a light hair serum when hair is still damp. Suggestion: try the Saroya FenuGreek Goddess Hair serum with fenugreek, rosemary, and yang yang extract. 

If you'd like to know more about the Ayurvedic perspective of hair, I recommend this article. 

Do you have a hair care routine? Comment below!

Do you, or your loved one, suffer from acne? Do you feel like you've tried everything but nothing seems to work? There's good reason why most acne products don't work. The fundamental issues are:

1. There are multiple factors that cause acne.
2. There is no "broad spectrum" one size fits all acne solution. 
3. Different products address specific causes of acne - if your acne is not caused by the factor that a particular ingredient addresses, it won't work for you. 

​This blog post is meant to be educational and it is my hope that at the end of it, you will be empowered to make appropriate choices towards a solution that works for you. 

What is acne?
Acne is characterized as a chronic inflammatory disease. It presents as closed or open comedones - i.e. whiteheads and blackheads - and inflammatory lesions - i.e. pimples, nodules, pustules. Typically acne is prevalent in young adults with girls being affected at a younger age (average 12 years) than boys (average 15 years). Adults also suffer from acne, typically women, due to hormonal issues. Since acne is characterized as a disease, it is a medical condition.

Causes of acne
There are multiple factors that cause acne. Below are a few well known ones:

• microbial colonization with P. acnes - bacterial infection 
• sebum production - sebum is the term for a complex of oils including triglycerides (fatty acids) and fatty acid breakdown products, wax esters, squalene, cholesterol esters and cholesterol that is produced by the skin. Recent research indicates that certain characteristics of sebum is associated with acne, namely, increased sebum production, alteration of lipid composition and the oxidant/antioxidant ratio characteristic of the skin surface lipids. Diet is linked to these sebum characteristics. 
• complex inflammatory mechanisms - inflammation is the body's immune system's response to an irritant. It involves changes in the blood, such as an increased number of immune system cells.
• neuroendocrine regulatory mechanisms - emotional stress induced acne
• diet - linked to sebum characteristics
• genetic factors - there is some research showing evidence of an "acne gene" 
• hormonal factors - androgens, a group of hormones, are linked to adult acne in women. "Androgens like testosterone stimulate sebaceous gland growth and sebum production. Estrogens have the opposite effect, that is, they inhibit the secretion of androgens, modulate genes involved in the growth of the sebaceous gland and inhibit their function. The activity of the sebaceous gland therefore depends on the estrogen/androgen ratio." 

Current treatment for acne
Modern treatment of acne falls under four categories:

1. Topical - creams, gels, lotions, and washes that are used on the skin and contain drugs and active ingredients that treat acne. Active ingredients include benzoyl peroxide, adapalene, retinoids, dapsone, tretinoin, salicylic acid, sulfur, niacinamide, and gluconolactone. 
2. Systemic - oral or topical antibiotics to treat inflammation. 
3. Complementary and alternative medicine - topical products or oral supplements that are herbal 
4. Physical - comedone extractions, laser treatments, cryotherapy
5. Hormonal - treated by synthetic estrogen via oral contraceptives

These treatment modalities are often combined with hyperpigmentation reducing products containing active ingredients like azelaic acid and ascorbic acid (vitamin C). 
By far, the most common treatment is topical - i.e. products applied on the affected area. 

​The current practice for treating acne combines multiple methods and ingredients in the hope that one or more of them will address the patient's particular acne. 
The major drawback of such an approach is side effects of using too many products, bacterial resistance to antibiotics rendering them ineffective, and expense involved in buying multiple products.

Ayurveda and acne
Given how ancient Ayurveda is, it is quite remarkable how many of the modern acne pathways it covers. Below are various causes of acne that are addressed in Ayurveda: 

• ​Kapha imbalance: Imbalance of Kapha dosha causes sebum issues
• Pitta imbalance: Pitta dosha imbalance causes "blood impurities" - this leads to inflammatory acne
• ​Vata imbalance: Vata dosha imbalance causes blackheads and hyperpigmentation at the site of the acne scar
• ​Improper diet: Certain types of food cause acne - Ayurveda gives practical dietary guidance for acne
• ​Certain activities: excessive sun bathing, excess or too little sleep, and fasting can trigger acne
• ​Emotional factors: Stress, anger, irritation, and behavioral changes cause acne

​Unfortunately, from my study, Ayurveda does not delve much into female hormonal issues in general. So this is a topic that I need to spend more time researching. 

In summary, both modern scientific research and Ayurveda point to multiple factors that cause acne. Therefore the most effective solution is one that is customized to your particular TYPE of acne. While there are many over the counter products for acne, you need to understand the cause of your particular type of acne and the ingredients that are suitable to address it for the products to be effective. The concentration of the active ingredients is also crucial in the efficacy of the products. 

The Ayurvedic approach offers the following benefits:

• To quote from Charaka Samhita, A handbook on Ayurveda edited by Gabriel Van Loon, "[All substances have qualities.] [In reality, all substances will have several qualities.] [By substance, it means food, herbs, weather, music, people, disease symptoms, etc.] [The beauty of this system is that everything in life may be viewed on the same radar screen, as it were, so that cause and effect is easy to see and treatment may be achieved with any substance, so long as it is opposite to the quality of the aggravated substances or pathology. 
• The Ayurvedic approach is inherently a personalized approach - it involves figuring your dosha imbalance, lifestyle, and mental state and thus can be more effective if done correctly. 
• Typically has minimal side effects if done right. 

To learn more, book a consultation with Saroya Natural today!