Scientific perspective on eczema
An understanding of the pathology of eczema is far from complete. The cause of eczema is attributed to a combination of factors such as epidermal barrier dysfunction, and immune dysregulation. The following factors can increase an individual's risk for atopic dermatitis, a class of skin diseases of which eczema is an example:

• genetic factors
• family history which can dramatically increase the risk of a child developing eczema
• environmental factors such as pollution, climate, and season
• cosmetics and personal care products containing harsh ingredients such as strong surfactants, preservatives, and fragrances
• diet triggers 
• immune triggers (example certain toxins)
• stress

The diagnosis for eczema is primarily based on clinical observation by a dermatologist. Symptoms must include the following to be diagnosed as eczema:

• Major criteria: itchy skin
• Three of the following minor criteria: skin lesions (damage), history of dry skin, asthma, skin rashes that tingle, burn, or ooze liquid

Atopic dermatitis can be classified based on the age of onset into "very early onset", occurring in babies (less than two years), "early onset", occurring in children between ages 2 to 6, "childhood onset", occurring in children between 6 to 14, "adolescent onset", occurring between 14 and 18 years of age, and "adult onset", in adults between 20 and 60. Very early onset eczema typically resolves after the age of two and is not the topic of the discussion here. 

The link between impaired epidermal barrier function and the immune system
Skin protects our body from external pathogens, pollutants, and toxic chemicals. The outermost layer, the epidermis, also serves the function of limiting water loss from the body. There is growing evidence that points to impaired skin barrier function being a symptom of an abnormal immune system. Several factors impact the immune system:

• Genetic factors
• Certain medical conditions
• Poor diet - micro and macronutrient imbalance
• Sedentary lifestyle
• Obesity
• Chronic stress
• Poor sleep
• Alcohol and tobacco consumption

With the exception of genetic factors, we have the power to control the other factors using lifestyle and diet. 

Treatment of eczema
Eczema is typically treated using topical and oral steroids to manage symptoms. Topical corticosteroids are prescribed to manage itching. Oral steroids are added to the treatment regimen in severe cases. Oral steroids work by suppressing the immune system. Steroids are intended for short term use as prolonged use can lead to several side effects. Oral steroids are especially risky as they can lead to kidney and liver dysfunction if used long term. ​

Preventive strategies using Ayurveda
In Ayurveda, the specific skin disease that matches the clinical manifestations of eczema is called Vicharchika.  All major Ayurvedic texts (Charaka Samhita, Ashtanga Hridayam, Sushruta Samhita) point to improper diet as the major root cause of eczema. Improper diet includes:

• Incompatible food combinations leading to improper digestion of food - Agni mandya 
• Excessive consumption of sour foods, such as yogurt, fermented foods, citrus foods, vinegar, tamarind etc.
• Excessive consumption of heavy foods such as dairy products, fried foods, raw foods, and processed foods
• The doshas involved in eczema are Pitta and Kapha. Thus the general approach in treating this disease involves strategies to balance these two doshas. 

Ayurveda sees food sensitivities as a symptom of poor digestion which may be reversed by strengthening one's Agni. However, food allergies are considered to be genetically encoded and thus must be avoided to prevent flare ups. 
General eating guidelines

• Eat only when hungry. Food must be completely digested before eating the next meal. It takes a few hours for digestion to complete. Frequent snacking, drinking (other than hot water), or having more than three meals a day are strongly discouraged in Ayurveda. 
• Eat in a pleasant ambience without distraction. Ayurveda advocates that one should fully focus on eating and enjoy the process and strongly discourages multitasking while eating, even talking. 
• Chew your food thoroughly and eat at an optimal pace; neither too fast nor too slow. 
• Exercise portion control; understand what fullness means to you and eat only up to three quarters of that threshold. 
• Eat food that is hot, cooked, and fresh. Minimize eating out, eating leftovers older than twenty four hours, and salads. 
• Ayurveda advocates Incorporating the six tastes, sweet, salty, sour, pungent (hot or spicy), bitter, and astringent, in our diet. For people suffering from eczema, bitter and astringent taste are beneficial while sour, salty and pungent must be reduced. 
• Eat per the season. Eat hot, cooked foods in fall/winter; cooling foods in summer. Minimize ice cream, cold water, salads, dry foods (cereal bars, crackers, nuts etc.) in winter. Minimize sour and hot/spicy foods year around if you suffer from eczema. 
• Avoid drastic changes in your diet. We generally eat a diet we are used to. For example, vegetarian diet, pescatarian diet, eating specific foods for breakfast, etc. Changes to the diet must be introduced slowly, even if it is perceived to be a highly beneficial change. 
• Minimize all sour foods, including fermented foods like soy, yogurt, citrus fruit, sour fruit, and vinegar. 
• Drink organic pomegranate fruit juice in winter and coconut water in the summer. 
• Avoid incompatible food combinations. This is important in the management of eczema and is discussed in more detail below. 

Incompatible food combinations
There is a laundry list of foods which cannot be combined per Ayurveda. Incompatible food combinations weaken the digestive fire over time which is the root cause of all diseases per Ayurveda. It can be very stressful to break this down into what is OK to eat and what is not if you're new to Ayurveda. But we can distill things into a few guidelines listed below:
The following foods can be safely combined: 

1. Veggies and meat, salads especially are recommended 
2. Cooked veggies and grains
3. Lentils and beans with grains
4. Oils, butter, or ghee with lentils, beans, veggies, and grains

• If you're combining anything other than what's listed above, be thoughtful. An incompatibly combined meal once in a while is OK. Repeated consumption of incompatible foods lead to impaired Agni over time. 

The worst food combinations that lead to improper digestion are:

1. Milk with anything other than some cooked grains. Cereal, cooked grains with milk are OK.  Combining milk with fruit (smoothies), eating cookies with milk (yeast containing products should not be combined with milk), salty or sour snacks with milk, meat and veggies with milk are considered improper combinations. 
2. Yogurt, cheeses, and paneer are considered to be unwholesome per Ayurveda. People with eczema should minimize consumption of these foods. Buttermilk is wholesome, so substitute yogurt with buttermilk. Yogurt should never be consumed at night. 
3. Eat fruit alone; no smoothies, or fruit yogurt. Avoid high acid fruit - citrus fruit, all sour fruit, pineapple etc. 
4. Don't combine animal and plant protein. 
5. Go easy on nightshades - potatoes, tomatoes, eggplant, and chili peppers in particular.

Skincare and lifestyle guidance
​Appropriate skincare must be used along with diet management strategies to manage eczema. It is as important to avoid certain ingredients that can trigger a flare up as it is to include certain others to nourish the skin. Less is more when it comes to products. 

• Avoid fragrances. Even natural plant oils like lavender etc. can be irritating. Eliminate all scented products including scented deodorants, candles, air fresheners etc. 
• Use fresh, unpreserved skincare. Anything you buy from the store containing water (body washes, lotions, serums) have preservatives that will kill the skin's microbiome and further aggravate eczema. Saroya Natural's Resuscitate Serum is a safe alternative without any harsh preservatives. 
• Use a body oil instead of a cream. Creams are mostly water, wax, and a bit of oil. They prevent water loss from the skin’s surface. Oils penetrate the skin barrier and are more nourishing. Use pure sunflower seed oil, coconut, sesame, or sweet almond oil followed by the cream. If you're allergic to nut oils, jojoba oil may be used. 
• Get rid of soapy body washes or soaps that remove the body’s natural sebum and disturb the skin's pH. Surfactants found in commercial body washes and preservatives used in all water based products disturb the skin's surface lipid structure which can aggravate eczema. Ayurveda advocates the use of powder cleansers made of grains, lentils, and herbs. Saroya Natural's Creamy Pomegranate Bliss body wash not only preserves the skin's sebum instead of stripping it like most body washes and soaps, but also has beneficial herbs targeted to manage eczema. ​
• Avoid showering in hot water and scrubbing skin using loofas, brushes, or washcloths. 
• Manage stress using mind-body techniques such as meditation, yoga, or calming breath work. 

Herbs used to treat eczema
Look for the following herbs in your skincare if you have eczema:

• Aloe vera
• Calendula
• Hemp
• Vetiver
• Licorice
• Mugwort (Artemesia vulgaris)
• Neem
• Manjishta
• Bakuchi

There are some classical Ayurvedic oil formulations that help with eczema management. These are:

• Paranathyadi tailam
• Eladi keram
• Marichadi tailam

Have questions? Need more help? Hit the Contact button and ask!

Science on milk
Multiple reviews have examined clinical trial data concerning the impact of milk on cardiovascular health, with a focus on saturated fats and their relation to cholesterol levels, particularly LDL-cholesterol. A summary of three papers (reference 1, reference 2, and reference 3) is presented below. 
Diet-Heart Hypothesis Revisited: 

• ​The diet-heart hypothesis centered on the impact of saturated fats on cholesterol levels, especially LDL-cholesterol, as a precursor to cardiovascular disease (CVD).

Clinical Trial Data (1960s-1970s): 

• Rigorous, large-scale clinical trials involving about 67,000 participants challenged the hypothesis. Trials, lasting 1-7 years, did not conclusively support the idea that reducing saturated fat intake reduces CVD risk.

Cochrane Review 2020: 

• Recent Cochrane reviews question the efficacy of reducing saturated fats in improving cardiovascular outcomes.
• Emphasizes the limitations of focusing solely on LDL-cholesterol and the oversight of critical clinical trial data.

On the other hand, several benefits of cow's milk were reported from the clinical trials. 
Benefits of cow milk
Milk and Blood Pressure: 

• Clinical trials indicate that milk fat consumption is not associated with increased blood pressure, and some studies even show a reduction.

Cardiovascular Disease (CVD) Risk:

• Large, randomized, controlled trials from the 1960s and 1970s did not conclusively support the diet-heart hypothesis.
• Dairy product intake in adults was associated with improved body composition, weight loss, and reduced risks of type 2 diabetes and cardiovascular disease, particularly stroke.
• Reductions in saturated fat intake, even with consistent reductions in total cholesterol, did not reliably reduce long-term clinical cardiovascular outcomes, such as heart attacks and deaths.

Impact on LDL-Cholesterol:

• Saturated fats, including those found in milk, do raise LDL-cholesterol concentration.
• However, reducing saturated fat intake and lowering LDL-cholesterol did not consistently lead to reduced cardiovascular risk in the long term.
• The decrease in LDL-cholesterol primarily reflected reduced levels of large LDL particles, which have a weaker association with heart disease risk.

Milk and Neurological Diseases:

• Milk consumption inversely associated with the risk of cognitive disorders, including Alzheimer’s disease.
• Increased risk of Parkinson’s disease with dairy product intake; the mechanism is unclear.

A1 β-Casein, A2 β-Casein, and Chronic Diseases:

• Caseins constitute a significant portion of milk proteins, with A1 and A2 β-casein variants. The A1 variant has been associated with gastrointestinal symptoms akin to lactose intolerance.
• The role of milk and dairy in chronic diseases is complex. While some studies suggest a protective role against obesity and Type 2 Diabetes (T2D), associations with cardiovascular diseases, cancer, and neurological diseases exhibit variability.

​Role of Diet Matrix:

• Saturated fats, when part of the food matrix in products like cheese and yogurt, are associated with essential nutrients like calcium, vitamins A, D, and B12, and proteins.
• The overall dietary pattern, particularly carbohydrate intake, plays a crucial role in the metabolism of saturated fat.​

​Salt taste in Ayurveda
One of the fundamental properties of substances as described in Ayurveda is Rasa, translated as "taste" in English. There are six tastes: sweet, sour, salt, pungent, bitter, and astringent. Since everything that was known to humans was perceived through the senses, Ayurveda describes the properties of substances in terms of five perceivable elements called Panchamahabhoota viz. space, wind, fire, water, and earth. The salt taste has the properties of Fire and Water elements and has the following effect on the body:

• Fire and Water being opposites, salt is neither too heavy nor too light
• Can be heating depending on the type of salt
• Stimulates digestion
• Has lubricant action
• Eases gas
• Causes heart disease in excess

​Types of salt referenced in Ayurveda 
There are over ten types of salt that are referenced in the Brihat Trayi, the three authoritative works on Ayurveda. Of these, five types are referenced in all three which indicates they were probably more commonly used. These are Saindhava, Samudra, Sauvarchala, Vida, and Aubhida. 

1. Saindhava salt is referenced in all three texts as being the best type of salt. This is currently understood to be rock salt. Contrary to other types of salts, this salt is cooling and beneficial for the eyes. The excellent review on salts in Ayurveda by N. S. Mooss explains the possible origins and composition of this salt: 

• Can be white or red in color
• Likely from the Sindh area in current Pakistan which is the probable root of the name Saindhava
• There are two hypotheses for what was the source of this salt: from salt mines and/or from hot springs
• Current commercial varieties of rock salt come from the Kohl and Kalabag areas of Pakistan and from Mandi, Himachal Pradesh in India. The former is considerably more pure than the latter (99% NaCl vs 70-80% NaCl).
• Modern commercial rock salt contains salts of potassium, magnesium, and calcium, all at less than 1%. This is also consistent with the chemical composition of several commercial varieties of Himalayan pink salt as determined by mass spectrometry in a paper by Fayet-Moore et al. Note that trace amounts of salts of several elements (including essential, non-essential, and harmful, viz heavy metals) are also present in any salt. But the most abundant metals, other than sodium, are Ca, K, and Mg. 
• Himalayan pink salt is often referred to as rock salt; from a chemistry standpoint, this seems to be reasonable. 

2. Samudra salt is clearly sea salt from the translation of Samudra which means sea in Sanskrit. Sea salt is described as being "not too hot" and heavy. 

• Sea salt, like Himalayan salt, also contains salts of calcium, potassium, and magnesium. 
• A growing concern with sea salt consumption is the presence of micro plastic contamination in several commercial samples, particularly in salts originating in Asian countries. 

3. Sauvarchala salt is a salt that is described as being "sweet smelling, light, and hot". There is significant confusion regarding the chemical composition of this salt. Based on the properties described, Mooss concludes that it may be comprised of NaCl, with some KCl, and sulfates of Na and K. This salt is likely a close relative of what we know today as Kala namak, or black salt. 
4. Vida salt is described as being "sharp, and alkaline, and dark red in color". This variety of salt is also currently shrouded in confusion as to the chemical composition. It is a salt that seems to be synthesized using organic material, probably alma. It is unlikely that there are authentic commercial forms of this salt available today. 
5. Aubhida salt is described as "sharp, hot, bitter, pungent, and alkaline". The origin of this salt seems to be in current Punjab. Mooss postulates that the composition of this salt is similar to Souvarchala salt based on the similarity in properties described. 
​Iodine in salt
​Iodine was introduced in salt in the US in the 1920s when goiter, a disease that causes enlargement of the thyroid gland due to iodine deficiency, plagued a significant percentage of the US population. Natural food sources of iodine are plants that absorb the nutrient from the soil, seaweed, fish, and dairy. However, there are some areas where the soil is depleted of iodine, such as the Great Lakes region in the US. This area was part of the "goiter belt" that catalyzed the introduction of iodized salt.
Iodine is not found naturally in cow's milk, but industrialization of the dairy industry, particularly, using iodine for sanitation and in feed, have resulted in dairy products becoming a significant, albeit highly variable, source of iodine.
So this begs the question: do we need iodized salt? 

• The population that is most at risk for iodine deficiency are pregnant women and vegans who do not get iodine from any of the animal sources mentioned above. 
• The daily recommended dose of iodine is 300mcg/day for pregnant women and about 150mcg/day for others. Iodized salt delivers over 50% of the daily recommended dose of iodine assuming 3-5g of salt intake per day. 
• Therefore, iodized salt may be a good addition if you are at risk for iodine deficiency. 

Conclusion

• Ayurveda considers Saindhava salt to be the best kind. Modern commercial types of salt that seem to be close to this salt from a chemical composition perspective are Himalayan salt. You may also try procuring the more authentic Saindhava salt from Pakistan or Himachal Pradesh. 
• Be aware of micro plastic contamination in modern sea salt. 
• You might want to mix in iodized salt (you can buy iodized Himalayan and sea salt) if you are at risk for iodine deficiency. 
• The key difference between table salt and the Himalayan and sea salts (besides iodine in the former) are the presence of other essential metals such as calcium, magnesium, and potassium in the latter. Although Himalayan salt is touted for the presence of an oddly specific number of minerals (84?), take this with a grain of salt (pun intended). Most of these minerals are present in very low concentrations to make any impact to our daily needs. 

I recently dropped a kid off at college and found myself stressing over how she’d take to adulting. Eighteen years of stability, comfort and organic food given up for a tiny box of a room, unhealthy food, and the freedom to binge on alcohol and god knows what else teenagers binge on. I suddenly seemed to be afflicted with amnesia, unable to recall any risky behavior I might have indulged in when I left home for college. My mom asked me if I’d taught her to cook. I rolled my eyes and said, “There are thousands of YouTube videos that she can watch to cook anything she wants. The correct question is, “Does she want to cook?””. What about managing money? We live in a world of digital currency. No more worrying about cash when there’s Venmo. The question is, what will she spend money on? As this conversation went on, I realized, somewhat triggered by Yuval Noah Harari’s works that I’d been reading, that two important questions to answer on our journey to adulting is “What do I really want?" and “Why do I want it?” As Google becomes our most trusted friend and guide, TikTok and Instagram tell us what we should like, and Amazon tells us what we should buy, do we have free choice anymore? “Know thyself” is age old wisdom but is probably more relevant and important today than it has ever been. 
The oldest seeds of human self awareness can be traced through the hazy maze of history to almost ten thousand years ago. The roadmap for human life lies like a diamond in the rough within the cryptic, archaic Sanskrit literature called the Vedas. Aptly called Purushartha (literally translated to “self meaning”), the Vedas alluded to four objectives of human life: earn one’s living, experience life to fulfill one’s desires, live a life of balance to understand and abide by what’s right, and finally, learn to let go, be “free” of desire. Detailed works expounding upon each of these four objectives were subsequently recorded by various scholars. We can distill some core principles from this ancient wisdom and use them as a compass to help us live with awareness. 

Artha, pursuit of material objectives: The Purusharthas advocate for the pursuit of wealth and material comforts. However, this needs to be done within the boundaries of Dharma. Dharma is a word that is impossible to translate into English. In this context, it implies that the pursuit of wealth must be done without harming others and in an honest manner. The guidance is to work with utmost focus without being attached to the work, or the fruits of the work. Through our work, we contribute our bit to the betterment of humankind. How do we interpret this in modern society? Some thoughts: 

• Understand the meaning of positive contribution; if what you do hurts other beings and disturbs the natural order of things, you will not be fulfilled even if you make a lot of money. 
• Work with utmost sincerity, for its own sake, without expecting to be rewarded for it.
• YOU are not what you do for a living. 
• Do not objectify yourself by valuing yourself based on how much money you make.

Kama, pursuit of human desire: What’s the purpose of pursuing wealth? For one, it is to enjoy the comforts and pleasures of human existence. Another is to give to others, spread our wealth to uplift others in need. Just as there are boundaries around how we earn our living, there are boundaries around how we pursue our desires, again within the dictates of Dharma. Here Dharma implies balance. Excessive pursuit of pleasure leads us astray from the path of fulfillment. Pursuit of our desires is generally accomplished with money. The key is to understand what we will spend it on, and how much we will spend. 

• Understand what you value. What brings you joy? Earn and allocate money to make your real desires come true. 
• Have a system to determine the monetary value of things. Such as a price comparison chart, reviews of the product, evaluation of the alternatives to understand the gap between having vs. not having the thing you desire. Having a system will help clarify your needs vs. wants.  
• Indulge in your passions, desires, and work without harming others, including yourself.
• Once you have taken care of yourself, give what you’re comfortable with to uplift others.

Dharma, upholding the balance in our life: Dharma implies many things; duty, code of conduct, balance, and purpose. We uphold the laws of the society we live in so that we may live freely. Breaking the law comes with the consequence of punishment. This is an obvious example of living according to Dharma. There are also moral responsibilities and our values which dictate our behavior and actions. 

• It’s highly worthwhile to identify your core values. This will help you understand your actions and help align the choices and decisions you make with who you are. (There are quite a few exercises to help you do this). 
• Pay attention to your feelings; some things and people energize us, others drain our energy. Choose wisely!
• Being authentic to yourself is the greatest act of self compassion and courage, and is good for your health. Never hesitate to acknowledge how you feel; with this awareness, comes clarity to take action. Bottling up our feelings comes from fear, destroys balance, and leads to self destructive behavior. Expressing our feelings thoughtfully leads to growth. 
• There are ten qualities that help us align with Dharma: resilience, forgiveness, self control, integrity, purity and hygiene of body and mind, reason, knowledge, truth, and control over anger. Strive to live by these. 

Moksha, freedom from human suffering: Moksha is the most elusive, least understood of the Purusharthas. It is freedom from fear, desire, and suffering to finally know who we really are. There is a concept of a true self; moksha is finding this self, finally knowing the “Truth”. A path to Moksha is through leading a life of Dharma. One can also attain moksha through study or spirituality. Attaining Moksha is considered to be the ultimate purpose of life.

• We cannot attain Moksha without fulfilling the other three Purusharthas. 
• Answering the question “Who am I?” is not defined by our current role in society or the work we do. What we do should be the result of self awareness. 
• Practice checking in with your feelings to identify what gives you true joy. 
• When things look bleak, take a moment to remember that there is a journey worth exploring, that into your own mind, to know who you are. 

I'd love to hear your thoughts!

How to manage dry and dehydrated skin
Dry skin needs oil, dehydrated skin needs moisture. 
Dry skin and dehydrated skin may have similar symptoms. So it's best to ensure that your skin has both enough oil and moisture.  
​There are three classes of ingredients that can help relieve the feeling of dryness: 

• Humectants: Humectants attract moisture to the skin. Examples are aloe vera, glycerin, stearic acid, ceramides, and hyaluronic acid to name a few. Humectants are great for dehydrated skin. 
• Occlusives: These are substances that form a protective barrier on the skin and prevent loss of moisture by evaporation. Examples include petroleum jelly (Vaseline), waxes like beeswax, emulsifying wax etc. which are found in commercial creams and lotions. Occlusives are also great for dehydrated skin. 
• Emollients: These are generally small molecular weight oils that penetrate the epidermal cells and fill in the spaces between them. There are a great variety of oils that have a wide range of skin benefits. But the oils that specifically benefit dry skin are those with a specific lipid profile. In general, oils with high linoleic acid content, a type of fatty acid, are the best for dry skin, specifically to help repair the skin barrier function. Sesame seed oil is a good generic oil with moderate linoleic acid content. However, it works best in synergy with botanicals because of its ability to carry these compounds deep into skin tissue. A great easily available oil that is abundant in linoleic acid is sunflower seed oil and is fantastic for skin. Typically, just a cream or lotion is not enough to manage dry skin. An oil needs to be part of your daily routine. 

​For harsh winter months, a multi-pronged strategy is recommended to protect your skin. 

• Take short showers. As tempting as it is to have long, really hot showers in the winter months, resist! Heat strips skin of its natural oils and can worsen the symptoms of dry skin. 
• Use gentle soaps, if possible only in areas that it is really needed. All soaps are going to strip some oil from your skin so my recommendation is to use as little of it as possible. Another option is to use a choornam, an age old Ayurvedic powder cleanser predominantly composed of lentil flour, like this one. 
• After a shower, apply a good body oil, like Saroya Natural's Vata Body Oil, when the skin is still slightly damp. It is important that skin is slightly damp when you apply the oil.
• For severe cases, finish off with a rich, thick cream that has waxes to seal the moisture.

What are your hair woes? Mine is a smelly scalp. I tend to sweat a bit on my head when I go for walks or exercise. So my personal nightmare is repulsing someone with scalp odor. Of course I could wash my hair several times a week to avoid this. But when you shampoo too often, you're cleaning the dirt at the expense of stripping your scalp of sebum, the natural oils that protect it from overly drying and keeps hair healthy. Read this article for a description of how shampoo works. 
My hair care routine is as follows:

• Oil scalp and hair every single time I wash my hair
• Apply a pH balancing hair mask. This is essential for scalp odor. 
• Shampoo hair - no conditioner
• Apply a light hair serum if necessary when hair is slightly damp

Oiling the scalp increases blood circulation to it and is important for healthy hair. A good hair mask must provide nourishing ingredients without stripping the scalp of the oils. You can customize hair masks for different purposes example, dandruff, hair fall etc. Some stellar ingredients suggested by Ayurveda are aloe vera gel (fresh from the plant), brahmi and bhringraj for hair fall, neem for dandruff, hibiscus for conditioning etc. Shikakai and aritha powders gently cleanse and restore pH balance to the scalp. 

A note on conditioning: modern day conditioners are made of oils, waxes and silicones. While they can make your hair shine and are great for detangling, the waxes just draw more dirt and if you put the product on your scalp, can block the pores and interfere with sebum production. Unfortunately, most commercial shampoos are so harsh that shampooing without conditioning is almost impossible. This is why it is important to pick a gentle, naturally conditioning shampoo. Saroya's Coconut Eucalyptus powder shampoo has conditioning coconut milk and is gentle enough that you don't need conditioner. 

For modern day bathing in showers, shampoos work best to remove the oil. 
This is what I advise my clients to do to achieve healthy hair that doesn't smell bad if you go a few days without washing. 

1. On hair washing day, oil scalp thoroughly. Suggestion: try Saroya's Hibiscus Hair oil. The proper way to oil hair is to pay particular attention to the scalp. The scalp needs to be massaged thoroughly to encourage blood circulation to the head. Then work your way down the hair length. 
2. After oiling, take one heaping tablespoon of your hair mask of choice  in a bowl and make a paste with the consistency of baby food with either coconut milk, aloe vera juice, or water. Suggestion: try Saroya's FenuGreek Goddess hair mask available for dandruff and hair fall. 
3. Let the oil  sit for at least two hours before washing. 
4. 30 minutes before wash time, get into the shower and apply the hair mask all over the scalp. It is more important to cover the scalp than the hair. 
5. Leave on for 30 mins. You can cover the head with a shower cap but it's not necessary. 
6. Wash off the mask thoroughly. Then apply a shampoo to wash off the oil. If using a conditioner, make sure that the conditioner is ONLY applied to the hair and not the scalp. 
7. Frequency of hair washing: With use of the hair mask, once every 5-7 days is good without your scalp getting too oily and stinky. 
8. If you suffer from dry and frizzy hair, apply a light hair serum when hair is still damp. Suggestion: try the Saroya FenuGreek Goddess Hair serum with fenugreek, rosemary, and yang yang extract. 

If you'd like to know more about the Ayurvedic perspective of hair, I recommend this article. 

Do you have a hair care routine? Comment below!

Do you, or your loved one, suffer from acne? Do you feel like you've tried everything but nothing seems to work? There's good reason why most acne products don't work. The fundamental issues are:

1. There are multiple factors that cause acne.
2. There is no "broad spectrum" one size fits all acne solution. 
3. Different products address specific causes of acne - if your acne is not caused by the factor that a particular ingredient addresses, it won't work for you. 

​This blog post is meant to be educational and it is my hope that at the end of it, you will be empowered to make appropriate choices towards a solution that works for you. 

What is acne?
Acne is characterized as a chronic inflammatory disease. It presents as closed or open comedones - i.e. whiteheads and blackheads - and inflammatory lesions - i.e. pimples, nodules, pustules. Typically acne is prevalent in young adults with girls being affected at a younger age (average 12 years) than boys (average 15 years). Adults also suffer from acne, typically women, due to hormonal issues. Since acne is characterized as a disease, it is a medical condition.

Causes of acne
There are multiple factors that cause acne. Below are a few well known ones:

• microbial colonization with P. acnes - bacterial infection 
• sebum production - sebum is the term for a complex of oils including triglycerides (fatty acids) and fatty acid breakdown products, wax esters, squalene, cholesterol esters and cholesterol that is produced by the skin. Recent research indicates that certain characteristics of sebum is associated with acne, namely, increased sebum production, alteration of lipid composition and the oxidant/antioxidant ratio characteristic of the skin surface lipids. Diet is linked to these sebum characteristics. 
• complex inflammatory mechanisms - inflammation is the body's immune system's response to an irritant. It involves changes in the blood, such as an increased number of immune system cells.
• neuroendocrine regulatory mechanisms - emotional stress induced acne
• diet - linked to sebum characteristics
• genetic factors - there is some research showing evidence of an "acne gene" 
• hormonal factors - androgens, a group of hormones, are linked to adult acne in women. "Androgens like testosterone stimulate sebaceous gland growth and sebum production. Estrogens have the opposite effect, that is, they inhibit the secretion of androgens, modulate genes involved in the growth of the sebaceous gland and inhibit their function. The activity of the sebaceous gland therefore depends on the estrogen/androgen ratio." 

Current treatment for acne
Modern treatment of acne falls under four categories:

1. Topical - creams, gels, lotions, and washes that are used on the skin and contain drugs and active ingredients that treat acne. Active ingredients include benzoyl peroxide, adapalene, retinoids, dapsone, tretinoin, salicylic acid, sulfur, niacinamide, and gluconolactone. 
2. Systemic - oral or topical antibiotics to treat inflammation. 
3. Complementary and alternative medicine - topical products or oral supplements that are herbal 
4. Physical - comedone extractions, laser treatments, cryotherapy
5. Hormonal - treated by synthetic estrogen via oral contraceptives

These treatment modalities are often combined with hyperpigmentation reducing products containing active ingredients like azelaic acid and ascorbic acid (vitamin C). 
By far, the most common treatment is topical - i.e. products applied on the affected area. 

​The current practice for treating acne combines multiple methods and ingredients in the hope that one or more of them will address the patient's particular acne. 
The major drawback of such an approach is side effects of using too many products, bacterial resistance to antibiotics rendering them ineffective, and expense involved in buying multiple products.

Ayurveda and acne
Given how ancient Ayurveda is, it is quite remarkable how many of the modern acne pathways it covers. Below are various causes of acne that are addressed in Ayurveda: 

• ​Kapha imbalance: Imbalance of Kapha dosha causes sebum issues
• Pitta imbalance: Pitta dosha imbalance causes "blood impurities" - this leads to inflammatory acne
• ​Vata imbalance: Vata dosha imbalance causes blackheads and hyperpigmentation at the site of the acne scar
• ​Improper diet: Certain types of food cause acne - Ayurveda gives practical dietary guidance for acne
• ​Certain activities: excessive sun bathing, excess or too little sleep, and fasting can trigger acne
• ​Emotional factors: Stress, anger, irritation, and behavioral changes cause acne

​Unfortunately, from my study, Ayurveda does not delve much into female hormonal issues in general. So this is a topic that I need to spend more time researching. 

In summary, both modern scientific research and Ayurveda point to multiple factors that cause acne. Therefore the most effective solution is one that is customized to your particular TYPE of acne. While there are many over the counter products for acne, you need to understand the cause of your particular type of acne and the ingredients that are suitable to address it for the products to be effective. The concentration of the active ingredients is also crucial in the efficacy of the products. 

The Ayurvedic approach offers the following benefits:

• To quote from Charaka Samhita, A handbook on Ayurveda edited by Gabriel Van Loon, "[All substances have qualities.] [In reality, all substances will have several qualities.] [By substance, it means food, herbs, weather, music, people, disease symptoms, etc.] [The beauty of this system is that everything in life may be viewed on the same radar screen, as it were, so that cause and effect is easy to see and treatment may be achieved with any substance, so long as it is opposite to the quality of the aggravated substances or pathology. 
• The Ayurvedic approach is inherently a personalized approach - it involves figuring your dosha imbalance, lifestyle, and mental state and thus can be more effective if done correctly. 
• Typically has minimal side effects if done right. 

To learn more, book a consultation with Saroya Natural today!

I am part of a Facebook group of female founders in beauty where someone asked the group to provide inputs on preservatives in cosmetics. Below is what I sent. Please note that there is a lot of misinformation around the use of preservatives. It is true that Saroya as a brand attempts to minimize products that have water and thereby remove the need of preservatives. But that choice is driven by many reasons beyond the need for preservatives. 

Why are preservatives important in cosmetics?
Preservatives are important in cosmetics for pretty much the same reasons they are important in other products, including food. They extend the shelf life of the product by inhibiting the growth of bacteria, mold, fungus, and yeast. Typically all cosmetic products that contain water need a preservative to have a shelf life that extends beyond a few days. 

What preservative(s) do you use in your products? Why?
- My brand focuses on waterless formulations so I do not use preservatives in a lot of my products. For the few products that do contain water like creams and lotions, I use a preservative combination of gluconolactone and phenoxyehanol. Phenoxyethanol is a very easy to use preservative in that it does not impact the stability of cosmetic formulations. It is also effective. However, it is a skin irritant and I am personally allergic to phenoxyethanol. This particular combination works for me as I am able to reduce the concentration of phenoxyethanol to a point where it does not cause a reaction while being effective in doing the job of extending the shelf life. 
Update: I switched to a much more gentle preservation system made from fermenting radishes in combination with gluconolacctone. Leuconostoc radish root ferment filtrate is a probiotic preservative that also helps with skin moisturization and pH balance. My formulation philosophy still remains the same - i.e. avoid water and/or use self preserving ingredients which have skincare and antimicrobial properties . 

What is your opinion on parabens?
I believe parabens have got a bad rap not necessarily backed by science. I personally have never used parabens but as a scientist I believe that a lot of things said about them are taken out of context or are not backed by facts. Some of the reasons that people believe parabens are bad are: 
a) They are endocrine disruptors. Yes, but so are many other things that contain phytoestrogens, including a lot of foods like soy. 
b) They cause cancer - this is really not backed by facts. The reason people believe parabens cause cancer is because there was a paper published that found parabens in breast cancer cells. Somehow this came to mean that parabens was the cause of the cancer. 

Do you use natural preservatives?
Vegetable glycerin is not regarded as a preservative but it can enhance shelf life by binding to water. In that sense, yes, I do use naturally available ingredients as preservatives. 
Update: Leuconostoc radish root ferment filtrate is classified as a natural preservative. 

Roses are abloom where I live (northern California). A friend asked me to share beauty recipes using roses - so here goes. But first, a quick introduction. Ever since the world changed with the spread of Covid 19 and we were asked to shelter in place, I started a self study of Ayurveda. I discovered the ancient texts of Charaka and Vagabhatta - the Charaka Samhita and Ashtanga Hridayam. Once I started reading these texts as well as numerous papers published by Indian academic institutions on the science of Ayurveda, I was completely blown away by the simplicity and consistency of this approach. I cannot go back to my old way of doing skin care.
According to Ayurveda, every substance in the universe can be used as medicine provided you know what you're doing and how to use it. Every substance has certain properties which should be understood so that the maximum benefits are derived from it. So before we talk about how to use rose, we need to understand what to use it for.

Rose is Bitter, Astringent, and Sweet in taste.
It has Light and Slimy properties.
It is Cold in potency.
Therefore, in Ayurveda, rose is used to soothe Pitta dosha and any disorders due to this dosha,. Rose is especially good if you have sensitive skin that tends to get inflamed easily. You can use rose externally as well as internally; use it fresh or dried. But first things first:

• Make sure they are not sprayed with any pesticide or other chemicals. Do NOT use store bought roses unless you are 100% sure they are pesticide free.
• Pluck your roses mid-morning. Rinse them gently in cool water and separate the petals. Make sure there are no bugs.
• If you want to dry the petals, spread them on a clean towel and dry them in the shade. Once dry, store them in an air tight non-metallic container in a cupboard so that it is not exposed to sunlight. This way, you can use the petals for up to one year.
• Use the most fragrant rose varieties for maximum benefit.

The best way to use roses for skin care is via face masks.
Use fresh or dried rose petals to make these masks.

• Crush about 10 fresh rose petals using a mortar and pestle. Add a teaspoon of raw honey and mix well. Apply this to your face and let it sit for about 10 minutes before washing off with cool water. This is a good way to cleanse the face all year around.
• If you suffer from acne, the following face pack can be helpful. Take about 7-8 dry rose petals and a teaspoon of masoor (red) lentils. Grind into a fine powder in a coffee grinder. Make a paste of this with enough milk (whole milk is best). Apply this to your face.
• if you have a lots of roses, consider making an everyday facial cleanser. Roses can be combined with appropriate lentils for your skin type (dosha). To find out more about crafting a personalized cleanser, contact Saroya.

Note: face masking, or mukhalepa in Ayurveda, needs to be done in a specific way.

• Thoroughly cleanse the face with a gentle cleanser and pat dry.
• Face packs need to be applied thick - precisely as thick as a quarter of the width of a finger. Use a clean cosmetic brush to apply the mask thick and evenly.
• The mask should be removed when it begins to dry. Never let the mask dry completely on your face.
• Wash off the mask with cool water and apply a drop or two of a facial oil suitable for your dosha or the current season.

Roses can also be used internally. Consider making rose Gulkand, a sweet dish. You can find many recipes online.

Or drink a rose tea.
To make rose tea, pour just boiling water on 3-4 dried rose petals. Let it steep for 2-3 minutes and drink the tea. Rose is good for the heart and balances Sadhaka Pitta - a sub-dosha of Pitta that influences emotions. . You can consider making a nervine tea by making a tea of rose, chamomile, and lemon balm. This combination is calming to the mind and helps the nervous system. Drink a cup before going to bed to set a calming ritual.

I hope you find these recipes useful. Comment down if you plan to try any and how they worked out for you!

​Every so often, I get questions from clients on skincare. Here's an interesting one from my sister: “Should I be using a toner?” Read on to find out.
There are multiple categories of skin care products: cleanser, toner, essence, serum, moisturizer, mask … what else am I missing? The function of cleansers and moisturizers are the easiest to understand. Cleansers remove dirt and oil from your skin. Moisturizers add hydration (or moisture) to your skin. Toners fall into a grey zone in terms of functionality. Some define the function as cleansing of your skin pores. Some define the function as adding more hydration or other additives. Hyaluronic acid and vegetable glycerin are examples of humectants that help with extra hydration while vitamins are other beneficial additives that can be added.
A toner, essence, water, or serum can all provide similar functionality. They are typically used after cleansing and before applying moisturizer and are watery in consistency. Some toners have alcohol in them. These are sometimes labeled as astringent toners. They are marketed as products that "tighten pores". Technically, pores do not open, close, or tighten. What happens is that the skin around the pores tightens because of dryness (alcohol is very drying) giving you the impression that your pores are tighter. 

Coming back to the question “Should I use a toner?” - below are three reasons to use one

• You use an alkaline cleanser such as real soap.           

Real, cold process soap has received a bad rap because it is alkaline. Our skin has an acid mantle with a pH ranging from 4-6.5. This acid mantle is necessary for good skin health. Disrupting the pH can cause various problems including dermatitis, irritation, acne etc. This is why many commercial cleansers and synthetic detergent (syndet) soaps are formulated to be slightly acidic or neutral. But if you do happen to use real soap, then you should use a toner immediately after to restore the pH back to the range of your skin. However, keep in mind though that not all toners are acidic. So if you use a non-acidic toner like "Rosewater" for example, it is not going to help.

I personally use real soap to cleanse my body and sometimes my face. The reason is because I made a choice to eliminate plastic from my skin care regimen as much as possible. (Saroya offers a solid shampoo bar that is neutral in pH that can double as body soap, but I prefer real soap because it can be made from scratch from plant oils.) The pH of the soap I make is around 8 so I use an acidic toner immediately after to neutralize the alkalinity.

• Age

    The pH of skin increases with age. So it might be a good idea to add an acidic toner to your routine if you are middle aged or older.

• You want to add certain actives to your skin

Do you want to add some exfoliation to your routine? There are toners with glycolic acid for example. Glycolic acid is a chemical exfoliant. Tarte has a toner with a bunch of alpha and beta hydroxy acids (chemical exfoliants).

This toner from Keihl’s has calendula and burdock botanical extracts meant to soothe sensitive skin.

This toner from Neutrogena is just water and butylene glycol and not terribly useful in my opinion. Other than a humectant and panthenol, it has no other nourishing ingredients. 

Some toners contain witch hazel, a bark with astringent properties, that constricts skin and gives the feeling of tightening pores. It is debatable if astringents do any good. However, witch hazel extract contains other beneficial skin nutrients such as polyphenols which are antioxidants. But beware of commercial products containing witch hazel as they can contain significant amounts of alcohol which is extra drying. 

In conclusion, consider a toner if you would like to get some new functionality that you aren’t getting from your regular routine. Do not simply pick a product based on the cover - read the ingredients and understand what they can do for you!