"The above graphic is a general guide to good skin health. I put this together based on extensive research - books authored by doctors (I don't trust all doctors - but I found this to be the general theme in most books and therefore believe there's a good chance that this method might hold). I did not cover one important thing that is an absolute prerequisite to good skin - diet. That will be covered separately. This guide is mainly intended to help you choose skin care products based on a clear understanding of purpose and ingredients. Note that the key ingredients listed on the product must be near the top - if they are way at the bottom, rest assured that they will hardly have any impact because of the minuscule concentration.
The goal of good facial skin care is healthy skin that has a glow.
Cleanser
Purpose: remove dirt, unclog pores.
Good ingredients:
Alpha and beta hydroxy acids. Examples of AHAs are citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, glycolic acid; example of BHA is salicylic acid.
Clay - surprising, but clay binds to dirt very well.
Synthetic surfactants - watch out for sulfates that can be drying.
Sulfates sodium lauryl sulfate, ammonium laureth sulfate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate
Other forms of surfactants: Cocoamphocarboxyglycinate, decyl Polyglucoside, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Decyl Glucoside, Glyceryl Cocoate
Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Almond Glycerides, Sodium Lauryl Sulphoacetate, Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, Sucrose Cocoate.
Toner
Purpose: further assist in removing dirt, balance skin pH. Skin pH is acidic - below 5! Acids make your skin tingle. So there are several cosmetics companies that sell toners with alcohol that will make your face tingle. Look out for these and do not buy them.
Good ingredients:
Alpha and beta hydroxy acids
Apple cider vinegar (acetic and malic acids)
Witch hazel
Willow bark
Bad ingredients:
Alcohol
Typically toners have a bunch of neutral things such as water, hydrosols, humectants etc. While these are all ok, they do not serve the purpose of what we want a toner to do.
Exfoliators
Purpose: Remove dead cells to prevent clogging of pores. Can be chemical (AHAs) or mechanical (scrubs). Absolutely vital to bring out the "glow", prevent acne, blackheads etc.
Good ingredients:
Alpha and beta hydroxy acids - needed in the right concentration. Rinse off products like cleansers with AHA's and BHA's are not going to work as well as a leave on product like a toner or serum.
Oatmeal flour, salt, sugar, bamboo are all good mechanical exfoliants. Mechanical exfoliants need to be used with care as they can leave micro scratches in your skin if used too vigorously.
Exfoliate at-least twice a week for decent results.
Skin nourishing ingredients delivered through serums
Purpose: deliver nutrients that will penetrate through dead skin to stimulate collagen repair. Collagen is a skin protein responsible for elasticity. The delivery of these nutrients is most efficient through a thin serum. Serums can either be water or oil based. Serums cannot be in a cream formulation and be effective. Serums go right after cleansing and exfoliating.
Good ingredients:
Vitams A, B, C, E, essential fatty acids, linoleic acids, Omega 3, antioxidants (vitamin C), ceramides, amino acids, anti-inflammatories (aloe vera, willowherb, .
Bad ingredients:
Alcohol, petrolatum, dimethicone, polymers.
Sealants
These are your creams and lotions that moisturize and create a barrier film on skin to prevent water loss. I wrote this detailed post here.
Protect:
The final step is to protect your skin from the sun which is regarded as the number 1 cause for why skin ages. Note that the sun damrelated aging is more of a problem for lighter skinned people than those that are darker. It is recommended that you use a sunscreen with SPF of at least 30.
What is the difference between sunscreen and sunblock? From http://www.melanomafoundation.org/prevention/facts.htm:
"Sunscreens can be classified into two major types: chemical and physical. Chemical sunscreens contain special ingredients that act as filters and reduce ultraviolet radiation penetration to the skin. These sunscreens often are colorless and maintain a thin visible film on the skin. These sunscreens usually contain UVB absorbing chemicals and more recently contain UVA absorbers as well.
Physical Sunscreens, most often referred to as sunblocks, are products containing ingredients such a titanium dioxide and zinc oxide which physically block ultraviolet radiation (UVR). Sunblocks provide broad protection against both UVB and UVA light. They can be cosmetically unacceptable to many people, because they are often messy, visible and do not easily wash off. However, some new zinc oxide products are available in brightly colored preparations which are popular with young people. The amount of sun protection these sunblocks provide, while potentially high, cannot be quantified in the same manner as sunscreen SPFs. Physical sunscreen is recommended for individuals who have unusual sensitivity to UVR. Most recently on the sun protection scene is sun-protective clothing designed to block UVA and UVB radiation. The effective SPF is greater that 30." I have a more in-depth sun protection guide here.
The goal of good facial skin care is healthy skin that has a glow.
Cleanser
Purpose: remove dirt, unclog pores.
Good ingredients:
Alpha and beta hydroxy acids. Examples of AHAs are citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, glycolic acid; example of BHA is salicylic acid.
Clay - surprising, but clay binds to dirt very well.
Synthetic surfactants - watch out for sulfates that can be drying.
Sulfates sodium lauryl sulfate, ammonium laureth sulfate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate
Other forms of surfactants: Cocoamphocarboxyglycinate, decyl Polyglucoside, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Decyl Glucoside, Glyceryl Cocoate
Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Almond Glycerides, Sodium Lauryl Sulphoacetate, Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, Sucrose Cocoate.
Toner
Purpose: further assist in removing dirt, balance skin pH. Skin pH is acidic - below 5! Acids make your skin tingle. So there are several cosmetics companies that sell toners with alcohol that will make your face tingle. Look out for these and do not buy them.
Good ingredients:
Alpha and beta hydroxy acids
Apple cider vinegar (acetic and malic acids)
Witch hazel
Willow bark
Bad ingredients:
Alcohol
Typically toners have a bunch of neutral things such as water, hydrosols, humectants etc. While these are all ok, they do not serve the purpose of what we want a toner to do.
Exfoliators
Purpose: Remove dead cells to prevent clogging of pores. Can be chemical (AHAs) or mechanical (scrubs). Absolutely vital to bring out the "glow", prevent acne, blackheads etc.
Good ingredients:
Alpha and beta hydroxy acids - needed in the right concentration. Rinse off products like cleansers with AHA's and BHA's are not going to work as well as a leave on product like a toner or serum.
Oatmeal flour, salt, sugar, bamboo are all good mechanical exfoliants. Mechanical exfoliants need to be used with care as they can leave micro scratches in your skin if used too vigorously.
Exfoliate at-least twice a week for decent results.
Skin nourishing ingredients delivered through serums
Purpose: deliver nutrients that will penetrate through dead skin to stimulate collagen repair. Collagen is a skin protein responsible for elasticity. The delivery of these nutrients is most efficient through a thin serum. Serums can either be water or oil based. Serums cannot be in a cream formulation and be effective. Serums go right after cleansing and exfoliating.
Good ingredients:
Vitams A, B, C, E, essential fatty acids, linoleic acids, Omega 3, antioxidants (vitamin C), ceramides, amino acids, anti-inflammatories (aloe vera, willowherb, .
Bad ingredients:
Alcohol, petrolatum, dimethicone, polymers.
Sealants
These are your creams and lotions that moisturize and create a barrier film on skin to prevent water loss. I wrote this detailed post here.
Protect:
The final step is to protect your skin from the sun which is regarded as the number 1 cause for why skin ages. Note that the sun damrelated aging is more of a problem for lighter skinned people than those that are darker. It is recommended that you use a sunscreen with SPF of at least 30.
What is the difference between sunscreen and sunblock? From http://www.melanomafoundation.org/prevention/facts.htm:
"Sunscreens can be classified into two major types: chemical and physical. Chemical sunscreens contain special ingredients that act as filters and reduce ultraviolet radiation penetration to the skin. These sunscreens often are colorless and maintain a thin visible film on the skin. These sunscreens usually contain UVB absorbing chemicals and more recently contain UVA absorbers as well.
Physical Sunscreens, most often referred to as sunblocks, are products containing ingredients such a titanium dioxide and zinc oxide which physically block ultraviolet radiation (UVR). Sunblocks provide broad protection against both UVB and UVA light. They can be cosmetically unacceptable to many people, because they are often messy, visible and do not easily wash off. However, some new zinc oxide products are available in brightly colored preparations which are popular with young people. The amount of sun protection these sunblocks provide, while potentially high, cannot be quantified in the same manner as sunscreen SPFs. Physical sunscreen is recommended for individuals who have unusual sensitivity to UVR. Most recently on the sun protection scene is sun-protective clothing designed to block UVA and UVB radiation. The effective SPF is greater that 30." I have a more in-depth sun protection guide here.