Sankhya is a philosophy that uses causality to rigorously explain how humans can break the cycle of suffering that accompanies existence, once and for all. The answer is through knowledge of the SELF, a concept that can only be experienced, but not explained. The concept of the SELF is core to all Vedic philosophical systems - it is also known as Purusha in Sankhya, Brahman and Atman in Vedanta philosophy. 

The following are foundational concepts of the Sankhya principles of creation that are useful to understand Ayurveda: 

1. Atomism: All that is perceived by humans, including the body, is made up of a finite number of elements, five to be precise. These are called Space, Air, Fire, Water, and Earth. The five elements are not to be thought of literally. They are to be understood as representing qualities or properties  of matter rather than the composition of matter. 
2. Our sense organs are instruments of knowledge: we interact with the world via sensual perception that is processed by our mind. 
3. Input to the senses from the external world impacts the output of the mind which drives our actions such as movement, eating, communication etc. 
4. Thus our wellbeing is determined by the state of our body and our mind; the two cannot be separated. 
5. If the input to the senses is unsuitable, the mind will make us act in ways that will be detrimental to our wellbeing. 

Though commentaries, interpretations, and research have evolved from the Vedic period to the present time, Ayurveda as we know it today, derives from three treatises: the Charaka Samhita compiled by the sage Charaka, Sushruta Samhita by sage Sushruta, and Ashtanga Hridayam by sage Vagabhata. All three works span eight specific topics. Ayurveda is defined in the first chapter, entitled Longevity, of the first section on Fundamental Principles as follows: Ayurveda is about life; what is a good life, a bad life, a happy or sorrowful life, a healthy or unhealthy life. But what is life? Ayurveda has a precise answer to this complex question: Life is the coexistence of the physical body, the senses, the mind, and SELF that is characterized by vitality. The goal of Ayurveda is to provide knowledge on the cause, symptoms, and treatment of disease. 
Although Ayurveda is focused on health, it is very important to study it from a perspective of its place in the ultimate purpose of life. The purpose of life, as defined in Ayurvedic texts, is rooted in Vedic philosophy and is essentially to fulfill four goals:

1. Enjoy one’s life and worldly experiences while
2. Contributing meaningfully to the good of one’s family, community, and society through work and
3. Ensuring that one’s actions, words, or behavior doesn’t do any harm to others, while always learning how to
4. Train one's mind to recognize one’s true identity (SELF)

In Vedic philosophy, our true identity has nothing to do with our body or mind. In fact all suffering is due to confusing one’s identity with one’s thoughts and body. Thus, Ayurveda should be practiced without obsessing over the state of one's health and body. 
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If this is interesting and you'd like to know more about Vedic philosophy, I highly recommend a series of lectures on Vedanta by Swami Sarvapriyananda that you can watch here. Even just the first lecture is highly illuminating. 

In my quest for authentic Ayurvedic skincare formulations, I spent the past few days poring over multiple volumes of  Ayurvedic materia medica and formulation books. The work was tedious as it involved cross referencing several Sanskrit words for the ingredients in the formulas to the correct volume of the materia medica book to determine the botanical identity. I learned a few very interesting things in this process, one of which is the use of lotus and water lilies in skincare formulation, and the fact that they are two distinct botanical species. One way to distinguish the two is the central part of the flowers, which becomes the seed pod in the lotus, but is absent in the water lily.  

The lotus is the national flower of India and is considered one of the most sacred of flowers. The goddess Lakshmi is depicted sitting on a pink lotus, and the flower is a symbol of beauty, purity, and prosperity. Below is an example of goddess Lakshmi from my alter. 

Lotus and water lily in Ayurveda
Called Kamala or Padma in Sanskrit, lotus belongs to the botanical species called Nelumbo Nucifera in the Nelumbonacae family. It is ironic that from an ecological perspective, the lotus plant may be considered an invasive species. Every part of the plant was used in Ayurveda, from the slush in which the plant grows, to its seeds. Nilikadya Tailam, a hair oil formulation, uses lotus rhizomes, while Triphaladi Tailam, also a formulation for hair disorders, calls for white and pink flowers (Sveta and Rakta Kamala).  
Triphaladi Tailam references an ingredient called Kumuda flower. Kumuda is water lily, botanically known as Nymphaea Nouchali. Another formulation called Kanaka Tailam, indicated for skin issues, calls for Utpala flower. Utpala, also called Nilotpala, is the blue water lily,  Nymphaea Nouchali variety Caerulea. The blue water lily is very often called blue lotus, and is the national flower of the country Sri Lanka. 

It appears that both Nelumbo Nucifera and Nymphaea Nouchali have similar properties. They have sweet, astringent, and bitter pharmacology and cold energetics, and thus highly valued for Pitta disorders, and also Kapha. Lotus is regarded as a Varnya, or complexion enhancing herb, while the blue water lily is referenced as having beneficial action on hair (Keshya), cognition (Medhya), and vitality (Rasayana). 

Lotus (Kamala) and Blue Water Lily (Nilotpala) in Indian Culture
Carnatic music is one of the two ancient forms of classical Indian music that is associated with southern India. One of the renowned composers of Carnatic compositions is Muthuswami Dikshithar, who lived in the late 18th - early 19th century CE. Dikshithar was born in Thiruvarur, which is part of the current Indian state of Tamil Nadu. Of his nearly 500 compositions (or Krithis), there are two sets of compositions, comprising 11 and 9 krithis respectively, dedicated to Kamalamba and Nilotpalamba, both incarnations of goddess Parvati, wife of the god Shiva. There is an ancient temple in Thiruvarur dedicated to lord Shiva (called Thyagaraja) and his consorts, Kamalamba and Nilotpalamba. There is a theory that Kamalamba is associated with the "Yoga" or spiritual aspect of Shiva, while Nilotpalamba is associated with the "Bhoga" or sensual aspect of Shiva. 

I have photographed the blue water lily in various places and had no idea of its history or use in Ayurveda until recently! Nor did I connect the symbolism of these gorgeous flowers to Indian culture and mythology. Hope you enjoyed this read. 

What is Chemical Exfoliation?
Chemical exfoliation is a skincare process that uses acids or enzymes to gently dissolve dead skin cells, promoting cell turnover. Unlike physical exfoliation, which relies on abrasive scrubs, chemical exfoliants provide a more even and less irritating method to achieve even skin.

Chemical vs. Physical Exfoliation: What's the Difference?
When it comes to exfoliating your skin, you have two main options: chemical exfoliation and physical exfoliation. Both methods aim to remove dead skin cells and reveal a fresher, more radiant complexion, but they do so in different ways.
Chemical Exfoliation:

• Ideal for those with sensitive or acne-prone skin, as it can be gentler and more precise.
• Beneficial for addressing specific concerns like hyperpigmentation, fine lines, and deep congestion.
• Recommended for those seeking a more controlled and consistent exfoliation process.

​Physical exfoliation: 
Physical exfoliation involves manually scrubbing the skin with granular substances or tools to remove dead cells, offering immediate smoothness. While effective for thicker skin, it can lead to micro-tears and uneven exfoliation, making it less suitable for sensitive skin. Physical exfoliation is:

• Suitable for those who prefer immediate tactile results.
• Effective for people with thicker, less sensitive skin that can tolerate manual scrubbing.
• Convenient for those looking for a quick, once-in-a-while exfoliation.

Why is Chemical Exfoliation Important?
Chemical exfoliation is crucial for several reasons:

• Improves Texture: It helps smooth out rough patches and uneven skin texture.
• Brightens Complexion: By removing dead skin cells, it reveals a more radiant and even-toned complexion.
• Unclogs Pores: By dissolving sebum and dead skin cells in pores, it can be effective in preventing acne.
• Enhances Absorption: It allows other skincare products to penetrate better, making them more effective. 

The Most Gentle Exfoliants
When starting with chemical exfoliation, it's important to choose gentle options to minimize irritation and sun damage. Some of the most gentle exfoliants include:

• Lactic Acid: Derived from milk, it's a mild AHA (alpha hydroxy acid) suitable for sensitive skin.
• Mandelic Acid: An AHA derived from almonds, it's gentle and ideal for beginners.
• PHA (Polyhydroxy Acids): Even gentler than AHAs, PHAs provide exfoliation with minimal irritation, perfect for sensitive skin.
• Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs) are oil-soluble acids that penetrate deeper into the pores, making them excellent for exfoliating oily and acne-prone skin. The most common BHA used in skincare is salicylic acid. Examples of BHAs are salicylic acid and Betaine salicylate. 

Saroya Natural's Blemish Control Botanical Serum is a fantastic option for those looking to incorporate chemical exfoliation into their routine. This serum combines natural botanical extracts with gentle exfoliants like lactic, ellagic, and salicylic acids to exfoliate, unclog pores, and reduce blemishes without causing irritation. Moreover, botanical extracts of pomegranate, willow bark, and bakuchi seed, an Ayurvedic herb renowned for its skin healing properties, deliver much needed antioxidants to protect skin from photo damage. This serum is gentle enough to be used daily at night. 

When to Incorporate Chemical Exfoliation into Your Routine
For most skin types, incorporating chemical exfoliation 3 times a week is sufficient. Start slowly to see how your skin reacts, especially if you have sensitive skin. Evening is the best time to exfoliate, as it allows your skin to renew and repair overnight without the risk of exposure to the sun.

Commonly Misunderstood Aspects of Chemical Exfoliation: Using Lemons and Apple Cider Vinegar

• High Acidity: While lemons and apple cider vinegar are natural, their high acidity can disrupt the skin's pH balance and cause irritation or burns.
• Inconsistent Results: The acidity levels in these items are not standardized, leading to unpredictable results and potential damage.
• Safer Alternatives: It's better to use products formulated with controlled concentrations of exfoliating acids like AHAs and BHAs for safe and effective results.

Precautions for People with Pigmented Skin
​For individuals with pigmented skin, extra care is needed when exfoliating to avoid issues such as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH):

• Patch Test: Always do a patch test before applying a new exfoliant to your entire face to check for adverse reactions.
• Start Slowly: Use a lower concentration of exfoliants and increase usage gradually to monitor your skin's response. Ideal concentrations of acids for Pigmented Skin:
  • Lactic Acid: Start with a concentration of < 5%. 
  • Glycolic Acid: Begin with a lower concentration of 5% to 8%.
  • Salicylic Acid: Use products with a concentration of 0.5% to 2%.
  • Mandelic Acid: Start with 5% to 10%, as it is gentle on the skin.
• Hydration: Keep your skin well-hydrated with a well formulated oil, cream, or balm to maintain its barrier function and reduce the risk of irritation.
• Sun Protection: Avoid excess sun exposure; use skincare rich in antioxidants (like Saroya Natural's Timeless Radiance Facial Oil), wear a hat, don't do out during peak UV radiation, use sunscreen to protect skin from sun damage. 

What to Expect When You First Start Exfoliating
When you first start using a chemical exfoliant, you might experience:

• Mild Tingling or Redness: This is your skin reacting to the new product and may or may not happen. If it does occur, it should not last for more than a week or so. Any reaction that persists for over two weeks indicates that your skin is sensitive to the product and its use must be stopped. 
• Smoother Texture: After a few uses, you’ll notice your skin feeling softer and more refined.
• Brighter Complexion: Over time, your skin will look more radiant and even-toned.

Skin Purging: A Potential Side EffectOne potential side effect of chemical exfoliation is skin purging. This occurs when the increased cell turnover brings underlying congestion to the surface, leading to temporary breakouts. Purging typically lasts for a few weeks. If breakouts persist beyond six weeks, it may be a sign of irritation rather than purging, and you should stop the product and consult a dermatologist.

Drawing Parallels with Ayurvedic Skincare Practices
Ayurvedic skincare also emphasizes gentle exfoliation and nourishment, often using natural ingredients:

• Yogurt Masks: Yogurt contains lactic acid, which gently exfoliates the skin, similar to lactic acid in chemical exfoliants. It also provides hydration and nourishment.
• Herbal Pastes: Ayurvedic pastes made from lentils were used for physical exfoliation.